The for loop doesn't return, it's just that when control flows to the end of the function, returning is the standard behaviour. It has nothing left to do, so control is returned to the calling code.

The recursive portion is begun with draw(n - 1), but then you have a new for loop, because the same function has been called again. That's what recursion is. Nothing in this function is non-recursive. It calls itself, so all of the code it contains could be happening from the initial call, or within a recursive call. When draw(3) is called, you will get 3 for loops. You will actually get 4 draw calls, but the last one will be draw(0) which returns immediately.

It's confusing slightly because it works in reverse to what you'd expect. The operational part of the code - the part that does the drawing - only completes after the recursion is finished. That's why it does draw(1) first, to make the pyramid right way up.

I don't know that I've ever done recursion like this. It seems deliberately fancy and somewhat confusing for a new learner.

Imagine if you put the for loop before the recursive call. What would happen? You would draw three first, then decrease, so you would have an inverted pyramid. That would be easier to understand, but it would also not make a pyramid.