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this post was submitted on 28 Jul 2023
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I found that I had to use gluestick for PETG on my bedslinger - without it the print wouldn't even stay in place for more than maybe a 60 minute print. I have heard about PETG fusing to glass beds also, though I have had the opposite problem, and I would just clean it off with some alcohol, but there didn't seem to be much of any kind of residue.
Now, the gluestick, on the other hand, that is a nightmare, until I found the method: spray it with windex or water, let it soak in for thirty seconds or so, then scrape with any spatula-like object. I often take two passes, but wetting the glue turns it into a looser sorta paste that comes right off. Once all the glue is off, go over it with alcohol to dry it all up, clean as a whistle.
My goto on a glass bed was blue painters tape applied with a spatula or flat tool. I discovered that the natural oils off my fingers transfered to the painters tape when applying making the first layer fail to stick every time.
PETG is a diva. If something's not perfect, it refuses to print. My CR-10 had the infamous first version of the Creality bed springs, and vibrations would cause enough movement of the tramming springs, the print would fail. Even watching it put down a perfect line of filament, it would move and fail during the first layer on a larger print. My problems mostly went away after upgrading bed springs.
Also, I live in a swampy area, I have to print PETG out of a heated dryer set to 55 degrees all the time. That took care of almost all of the other problems.
PETG is softer than PLA, so the extruder "bites" it differently. Calibrating my e-steps for PETG was the final key to printing great PETG parts.
I still think ASA is easier for me to print than PETG.