Don’t forget gatekeeper replies to honest newcomer questions
And the hounding if you don't get a Bambu. Somehow "Bambu printing" and "3D printing" seem to be two different things now, given the cult-like fervor.
I want to hound people for getting a Bambu. Look at the bullshit we're dealing with on 2D printers because they aren't open source with standard parts.
And the hounding if you don't get a Bambu.
Where do you see that?
all very accurate but I want to add that eveb if you want to resin print in your bedroom you wont be able to. It's not only that it's toxic but the smell is so strong that, at least for me, it's impossible to be around it. My printer is outside in the garage and when it's printing you can still smell it inside the house. I can feel my cells mutating in real time
Lol the napping skeleton is the best, love when streamers just breathe in and play with that shit like it's play doh
or the guy who put it in an airbrush to cover a part and smooth it
It has to go with the brain...
Ok, but where do I put the ink?
I want to get started 3d printing, partially because I bought a house and farm and need to replace some little bits and bobs that don't necessarily need to be super strong. It just seems a bit too much to try to figure out right now.
I went a little crazy on 3d printing during covid. I had a single printer prior but purchased two more. I haven't printed on ANY of them in like 2 years. I end up just printing stupid shit or because I go so long between printing wasting way too much time to get everything dialed back in. Now I don't even know what my slicing settings were and I would have to probably start from scratch. I should probably just sell my printers....
I printed a lot of custom stuff that I designed for specific uses in Fusion 360 when I got my computer, and for about two years afterwards. But I don't have any more custom stuff that needs to be printed, and I don't have a D&D group any more, so my printer has been sitting for about six months. I'd say it's a success though, since I made everything I need, and it'll still be there if I ever need anything else.
This was the second half of my problem honestly, I can't for the life of me figure out how to 3d model stuff. I've gone through tutorial after tutorial so clearly it's me.
I actually have stuff I'd like to print but I'm not competent enough to model it. I'm the n00b just printing stuff I can download from the internet. Or was I suppose....
There's a learning curve for sure. A lot of the tutorials on YouTube aren't very helpful. Some are downright awful. This guy's channel really helped it click for me. You can just start by following his lessons and at some point it'll click and then you can start designing really basic stuff like drawer organizers, which are essentially just cubes, and then work your way up from there. It does take time though.
Having a 3d printer is super convenient for any home or shop repairs I need to make. I have so many curtain spacers and custom hooks all over the place now. The key is to get some hours in Fusion or some other good CAD software so you can whip up custom parts in minutes. You may get it wrong the first few times, but a couple minutes of tweaks and then you have a new part printing while you go back to working on other stuff.
The Swedish Maker just put out a video about how transformative 3d printing has been for his workflow. https://youtu.be/p2bClWmKHRM
That's fair, there is a bit of information overload online when looking into it.
If you want my two cents, find the cheapest print with auto bed levelling (mingda magicians are good and cheap) and just start playing around.You don't need to know much to start, and you learn what you need to as you encounter problems.
That's how I got into at least, and now been printing for like 5+ years.
I'll have you know the Ender 3 I found dumped behind a tent near the Dyatlov Pass is working great
Do the models appear finished before you even start printing?
Okay but like I was given an Ender 3 for free and idk where to go from there
Maybe the fact that the family member who gave it to me didn't want it around anymore should have been a sign
Make sure the screws are snug and the beams don't move. Level the bed, Youtube how. Then get a micro SD card and a slicing program. Slice the model, save to card, insert in printer, hit print from file and select the file.
That's like 95% of it. The other 5 is endless struggles and troubleshooting, but you can worry about that when it comes to it lol. Oh also keep filament dry.
People give the Ender 3 a bad rap all the time, but it's honestly a great little machine. I far prefer it to the $2500 printer we have at work that has "automatic everything" and can't easily be adjusted to manually correct its bad settings.
With that said, how far have you gotten with it? Do you have any software installed? Have you tried printing anything (and was it successful)? You didn't give much clue as to where you're stuck. Yes you need to take some time to learn how to fine-tune the settings, and yes it can be frustrating because there is SO MUCH to learn about 3D printing, but once you get over the hump you can start cranking out all kinds of fun things.
Not op, I got a free Ender 3 from a frustrated co-worker, and am now the frustrated co-worker. I've tried getting a new glass print surface, tried using glue sticks, tried changing print temps and speeds, tried levelling and re-levelling and re-levelling the bed, but I just can't get the print to stick for love or money. It's now been re-homed to the garage, as a parking obstacle for my bicycle.
Honestly at that point I would tear down the whole thing and use this video as a guide for reassembly. The most important thing to do is to make sure the framework is all squared up, otherwise all prints will suffer.
As for bed leveling... A lot of people think the paper test is all you need, but really that only gets you close enough to start leveling the bed. First thing is to tighten all the springs to within 1 turn of being closed, then adjust the Z switch so that the head homes to roughly that same height. After that you use the paper method to get the bed roughly level, then move on to live testing with a 5-point bed-leveling test print to dial it in. Ideally you want the nozzle gap to be about 75% of the nozzle size, so for a 0.20mm tip you would want a 0.15mm gap to get your print to stick.
As I mentioned to someone else, Creality's QC is garbage. My first glass bed had better adhesion than PEI and worked beautifully for a few years until the coating wore out. My second glass bed was trash, I never could get anything to stick to it without using hairspray, and now it sits in its box. I have a PEI bed now, which seems to have solved the problem. If you decide to try using the printer again, don't forget to clean the glass with 90% ISO. Worst case try flipping the glass over to the smooth side, clean it with ISO, then use glue sticks on that surface (you won't get any adhesion on bare glass without the glue or hairspray).
Not the person you responded to, but I had mine set up. I had the software installed, I (thought) I even had the bed leveled, but every print either failed to stick to the plate, or eventually stuck to the nozzle. I ended up with a lot of spaghetti. I got frustrated and decided to take a break. I'd come back to it fresh, and see what I could do.
... That was three years ago.
One thing I learned is that Creality's QC is absolute garbage. When I first got my printer I also picked up a glass plate. Everything stuck perfectly to it, hardly any fuss at all. After several years the coating wore out and I bought a new one. Total trash, nothing would stick without heavy usage of hair spray and I eventually gave up on it.
If you want to try again, look for PEI beds. If you have one with the magnetic base, there are several with the PEI already mounted on a spring-steel plate. PEI is one of the best surfaces you will ever find to print on, although I believe one type of filament (I think a variation of PLA?) sticks too well and can damage the PEI trying to take prints off... but I've used regular PLA, PLA+, and TPU with great success, and have heard that ABS also works well on it. Just keep it clean with 90% ISO and you'll eliminate at least one problem.
Of course there's also the whole thing with bed leveling. I run into a lot of people who think the paper method is the whole process for leveling, when really it's just to get your printer dialed in close enough that you don't ruin the bed when you actually begin to do the leveling. Getting the leveling wrong is by far the most common reason why prints don't stick well so do your best to nail that aspect. You want the nozzle gap about 3/4 of the nozzle size, so for a standard 0.20mm nozzle you would want a gap of about 0.15mm for your first layer (but still use 0.20 in the slicer) to get that proper smoosh. My leveling method involves using a 5-point bed-leveling test print, and you can judge the gap by eye from that. Takes quite a few iterations to get all the corners dialed in, but you shouldn't have to do it often.
Speaking of which... another common complaint is the loose bed springs. You want to Crank those puppies down almost completely closed, then adjust the Z switch to that new position before starting the leveling. Tight springs means you almost never have to readjust the leveling knobs. I check mine about once a year.
PEI is one of the best surfaces you will ever find to print on, although I believe one type of filament (I think a variation of PLA?) sticks too well and can damage the PEI trying to take prints off…
That's PETG. I avoid using smooth PEI plates like fire when PETG is loaded. Even after swapping the filament to PLA, little bits of residual PETG can still stick leaving a shadow on the plate. Textured PEI is mostly fine, but single layer stuff like brims are a pain to get off.
Assuming proper level, mess with temp settings and maybe try a layer of glue stick glue. Helps big time with first layer adhesion but it gets messy if you don't clean it off. Though my bed is a mess and it still prints OK lol.
That's why I always recommended a Prusa Mk3 to beginners, if their budget allowed it.
Stuff like auto bedleveling is just too good to not have.
I set up and calibrated my Mk3 in beginning of 2020, and I never had to fiddle with anything on that machine again. It just prints.
They have like 236 ender 3's nowadays, ofcourse i'm not asking google as i'll end up on some website that's shilling for creality and completely ignores the other brands.
Can google be used at all for any product recommendations anymore? Anyone with a buck to make is gaming the algorithm.
I'm laughing out loud at the skeleton picture! He seems happy about his prints! 😂
So what printer should I be looking for when I rob graves?
Where are these graves I can rob Ender 3s out of??
I have the opposite problem, my prints stick to the bed too well, I can hardly get them off!
Let the bed cool down all the way, ya little gremlin! If you absolutely can't wait, put the bed on a tile floor and your print should pop off on it's own pretty quick.
I do! Lol I've had a print stuck to my bed for the last 2 weeks.
If it is a removable bed, pop that bad boy in the freezer for a bit and the print should pop off. If not then you may want to try some glue stick on the bed before a print which will help the print release since it'll pull off the glue.
Ok but why isn't it smooth 😅? My layers look like that but I kind of just accepted it as I have a cheap printer (Anycubic Kobra Neo)
Edit: do you just need to set a lower layer height?
Yep, you'll never get it perfect, but a smaller layer height will make the steps less noticeable. Adaptive layer height in cura if you use that can help, but adds a mortal age to the length of the print.
Pretty much all the reasons I can't stand most 3D Printing communities on the internet. Too much basic troubleshooting answered dozens of times already and not enough cool projects.
Make a wiki, point people at the wiki, I suppose.
One thing I did like about Reddit was the wiki feature.
Could have a bot that links to a git wiki, or even just a sidebar with knowledge base stuff would be nice for that.
The reason that in the middle is happening is that the temperature is wrong, judging by the inconsistent thickness of extruded material and lack of adhesion. If it's a high heat filament like PETG then the printer might be stopping and resetting because its got a heat sensor with a low upper limit.
What about the top right benchy?
Filament too wet obviously /s
Two printers were fighting for the same bed (one with black filament and one with white). Obviously the black printer won and finished the print perfectly.
For that one you need an old priest and a young priest.
The printing next the door bedroom makes me hope it catches fire and I burn to death.
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