Most high-end geared heads (Arca-Swiss, Linhof, etc), have an integrated Z-axis (panning) control built in to the top clamp. The idea is that you can use the X and Y controls to level the head and then as the last step pan the (leveled) camera for precise composition. The problem is that on most I've used (except the Linhof Micro 3D), the panning isn't itself precisely level! It often tilts slightly as you rotate the camera, negating the whole point of geared X/Y controls in the first place.
this post was submitted on 26 Dec 2024
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The Rogeti fixes this by having separate panning modules that you can use (or not), and which are built to stay precisely level throughout their rotation. If you don't use a panning module, then the camera is fixed pointing straight ahead (this also saves a bit of volume and weight) Or you can insert either a free-turning or a geared panning module between the camera and the top of the head. It's a nice system, and very precisely built.
The downside is that Rogeti decided to "improve" on the standard Arca-Swiss dovetail plate by including a vertical locking pin in the middle of the edge of the plate. I can see the advantage to this as a clean-slate design, but it means that while their clamp is backwards-compatible with existing plates, their plates can only be used with their clamps. And that means that the panning modules only fit on the Rogeti head, which is an annoying limitation.
Anyway, if you're considering a geared tripod head (and if you want to do precise architectural work, you probably need one), the Rogeti is worth a look. B&H sells the head itself, but the panning modules seem to only be available directly from the factory (meaning a couple weeks of shipping time from China).
Another quirk: the one of the bubble levels in mine is a bit off. This is a common problem, and why I never trust the levels in the head - I only make adjustments based on the levels directly on the camera body.
Anyway, for precision work, the Rogeti is more usable than any of the Arca-Swiss heads I've used. Only the Linhof Micro 3D (more expensive and with a more limited range of movement) does better, at least among heads I've used.
Neglected to include links:
Rogeti: https://rogeti.com/products/rg1
Linhof: https://linhof.com/en/3d-micro/
Arca: https://arca-swiss-usa.com/products/c1-cube-geared-tripod-head
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@mattblaze@federate.social
I only follow you for the great photos and the occasional recap of the story of locksmiths trying to run you out of town
All that is predicated on my process for composing geometrically precise architectural photos (zero or single point perspective), which is roughly:
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Find a good view of the subject and put the tripod there (Google street view is often helpful for preparation).
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Use the LOWER pan control to aim the camera approximately toward the subject.
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Use the X and Y controls to level the camera, using spirit levels on the camera body. This should make vertical lines on the subject vertical.
...
...
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Use the TOP pan to rotate the camera parallel to the main face of the subject, until horizontal lines on that face of the subject appear horizontal.
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Use shift on the camera to compose the final framing.
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Finally, at long last, capture the image exposure at an opportune moment.
Note that most lenses have some geometric distortion, especially toward the edge of the circle. You can correct that in post, but in the view, it's best to use the center of the frame to check geometry.
So, basically, what I generally do is work from the bottom tripod and camera controls toward the top, in a way that avoids needing to re-adjust controls once I've properly set them.
Anyway, all this should help explain why I'm somewhat obsessed with optimizing my tripod and tripod head setup. It's what I'm interacting with most closely when I'm actually making a photo, even more than the camera and lenses, and it's the stuff for which errors are often very hard to correct after you've made the exposure.
It's also why I'm impossibly slow and annoying to be around when I'm making pictures.
@mattblaze@federate.social
So much of the tech you mention is way over my head (and budget) but I look things up and have learned from your posts. Thank you!
@mattblaze@federate.social You monster! 👀
@mattblaze@federate.social what a coincidence. Just this morning I was doing more research on reports and reviews as I’m looking for new geared head myself. There are very few reviews or even just comments on forums by people who have used more than a single of of those heads. Was looking for reports on the Rogeti and Linhof heads, but found no direct comparisons. This mini thread of yours is helpful - to me at least. Thanks for sharing! Wondering how long you’ve been using the RG-1 so far?
@RecoveredExpert@mastodon.social A couple months now. The linhof is generally better - it has VERY precise and smooth gearing - but it only allows +/- 12 degrees of leveling. That’s more than sufficient for level photos, but can leave you wishing for more if you want to shoot upwards or downwards. The RG1 has more range, and is a bit cheaper.
@RecoveredExpert@mastodon.social Also, if you go for the Linhof (assuming you’re in the US), you save a TON by ordering it from abroad. Linhof and Studio outside London is a reliable retailer that I’ve dealt with, and has them for much less than any US dealer.
@mattblaze@federate.social Linhof Germany is just about 25 mi from where I live. With 19% import
Tax and possibly custom fees the RG-1 with shipping from China would be more expensive to me than the 3D Micro. Wish I could rent both and test them, but that impossible where I live.
Thanks for sharing your experience in the original posts and your replies to
my questions!
@mattblaze I’ve narrowed it down to the RG-1 and 3D Micro already. Wondering how much weight you’re putting on it, if that is on or off-center and if you’ve noticed any sag.?
@RecoveredExpert I think my heaviest setup is maybe 12 lbs, a bit off center. No problem for either head; both are rock steady. I wouldn’t use either with a 600mm monster.
@mattblaze@federate.social
Was asking b/c beside my std use case (simple FF DSLR/MILC) camera + not too long lens (200 mm or less on “full frame”) I also wonder if I could use it as a fancy leveling base when using my motorized +automated pano head. That’ll get me to around 7.5 kg/16ish lbs and a load that is a bit off center. It’s not something I do often anymore, but when I use it my old leveling drives me nuts.
@RecoveredExpert@mastodon.social yeah, I’ve never tried with anything like that. You’re PROBABLY ok, but the arca cube seems more solid (and has adjustable friction).
@mattblaze@federate.social For my standard and most common use case (which include 17 & 24 mm T/S lenses) the C1 isn’t ideal. Getting two geared heads seems a waste of space and weight, especially when traveling ;)
@RecoveredExpert@mastodon.social Totally. I don’t think there’s any perfect solution here. The Arca heads are more rugged but less precise, sadly.
Personally, I’d probably go with the Linhof if I had to pick just one.
@mattblaze@federate.social I was under the impression you prefer the Rogeti over the Linhof?
@RecoveredExpert@mastodon.social The Linhof is definitely a more precise instrument , but has more limited range and is bigger amd heavier. Rogeti is better for general use (especially traveling light), but the Linhof is better if the range is sufficient.
@mattblaze@federate.social So the range is the primary reason you’re preferring the Rogeti for your use cases?
@RecoveredExpert Right. Also the geared panning option (which I like occasionally). But the Linhof is otherwise much more precise and fun to use.
@mattblaze@federate.social I’ll probably get the RG-1, as it seems to be likely the head thats best overall for my standard use-case(s).
Just curious: did you keep your previous head after getting the RG-1? If so, are you still using it occasionally and in what situations?
@RecoveredExpert@mastodon.social Yes, I kept the Linhof (and the Arca Cube, too). That’s a bit extravagant, admittedly, but they all have different strengths and weaknesses.