antimidas

Infuriatingly that would omit things like unit test runners from the history in case they don't pass. As a developer I tend to re-run failed commands quite often, not sure how widely that applies, though.

Thanks!

Development did go just fine, the two issues were a fat roll (light leaked in through the ends a bit as can be seen in the right side) and scanning.

I've been experimenting with trying to get rid of the newton rings while flatbed scanning. This time I didn't get newton rings thanks to an anti-glare glass bought from goodwill. The finish on the glass is so coarse, though, that the texture is very visible in the scans. Will have to see how bad it is with color film as well.

I'll probably build a custom scanner for 120 at some point, but now I'll just have to try to make this work. I've been planning on trying to build a drum scanner using APDs and some readily available ADC to see how much dynamic range I can get out of them.

I'd assume it's WTC

Yep, infuriatingly installers often default to small /boot volumes, and if you want to change that value better say goodbye to automatic partitioning. Although, after trying to make the installer behave, giving up and manually formatting the drive, I finally got the push required to set up both encrypted root and encrypted /home on separate drives.

Currently I use an 8 GiB /boot, but I really think Debian installer should start making 2 GiB or even 4 GiB /boot the default now. Dumb to have the installer shoot itself in the foot like this. Ubuntu still does the same thing for some reason, as if we don't have room on the drives to fit a bit more futureproof /boot there.

Yep, and if you go BW there are many affordable options, like foma 100. Also many labs are still processing film if you want to try it out without developing yourself. Film has had a proper resurgence for a while now, getting a lot more traction during covid.

Germans had a working solution to this for decades, but apparently gave up on it for some reason (not competitive with road traffic is probably the correct one)

It was called a railbus and they were once quite prevalent on European branch lines. Finland had and Sweden loads as well, in rural areas, until someone decided that a normal bus is better for some reason.

I'll chain another comment here still. One thing that has surprised me getting into film photography is how recent some of the latest entries to the market are, especially the faster films. I would've never guessed that Delta 3200 is younger than I am (1997 vs 1998).

Can't wait to try this film at 6x9, to see how the grain shows then.

The end of the roll didn't end up getting quite so mangled in the process, so I'll add some additional examples here. The last two pictures are a bit more representative of what the results would've been like if I didn't mess up the development.

Correct, hand developing in a tank. Started developing myself a bit over a year ago, after the local lab went bankrupt. This particular roll was developed with XT-3 at 26,5 °C (can't get the room colder than that during summer). Additionally, this isn't really a darkroom print, just a scan of the negative – I'm planning to get an enlarger at some point but unfortunately my current home doesn't have room for a proper darkroom.

Usually it goes without issues, this time I didn't let my equipment dry well enough before spooling the next roll, plus it was insanely humid so my hands got drenched in sweat in the changing bag. Water on the spools and sweat made it very difficult to get the film in, but at that point it was too late to try to roll the now wet film back into the canister.

C-41 I still send to the lab, don't have the required equipment yet.

Ok – that works a bit differently for our code then. Standard breakers are 10 A and 16 A, which means 10 A and 16 A constant load. Load characteristics affect which profile you use, typical residential alternatives are B and C profile breakers. B trips quicker, C trips slower and is meant for circuits with more reactive load characteristics. 16 A C profile breaker can take up to an hour to trip under 18-19 A load as an example. Your standard breaker can deal with quite a lot of inrush current – even with the faster B profile.

Wiring is built to withstand approximately 15 A when using a 10 A breaker, and 20 A when using a 16 A breaker. As such, the fuses display the value for constant loads, not for the peak. The most commonly used outlets in the EU (i.e. Schuko) are rated for 8 A continuous, 16 A peak, and are typically put on a 16 A circuit. 10 A circuits are mainly used for lighting nowadays, at least in Finland – 16 A being the standard for most things.

The voltage difference might have something to do with this, as 230 V will be capable of driving much more power though a potential short. As such any actual fault condition will most likely cause the fuse to trip quite quickly. Also current code mandates GFCI on all outlets in a house, which will help with smaller faults that aren't enough for the breaker to trip.

At least here the electrical service base rate is largely set by the max amperage you can draw from the grid. I'll use my own home's electricity cost breakdown as an example (all listed prices, even the additional tax, include our 25.5 % VAT)

1. Monthly base rate for your main breaker, depends on your grid operator – mine is 7.63€ for 3x25 A connection (among the cheapest grids in Finland, I previously used another example often seen in smaller cities, which is 29.71 €/month)
2. Transfer costs, 0.0187 €/kWh during day, 0.0089 €/kWh during night
3. Electricity tax, 0.0282752 €/kWh, includes national energy security taxes as well
4. Cost of the actual electricity, typically ranges from -0.05 €/kWh to 0.20 €/kWh with yearly average being about 0.055 €/kWh
5. Electricity company's margin for spot prices, 0.004 €/kWh
6. Electricity company's base rate, 4.90 €/Month

For many cities in Finland the base rate for grid connection is considerably higher, and especially for apartments tends to be the majority of your electricity bill outside major urban centers. Even in cities it makes up a large percentage, so there's a big incentive to not overspec your service.

As a European those power draws listed sound absolutely absurd to me. I mean, I can easily believe you, but a stove pulling 50 A at 240 V, so 12 kW, sounds like a complete overkill in normal use. The dryer power use also sounds comically high, when viewed from a country where heat pump dryers are the norm.

Let's go for a standard single family home example. Level 2 charger is either 8 A (5.5 kW) or 16 A (11 kW) three phase. On top of that, typical sauna is 6-7.5 kW, 1-2 heat pumps (approx. 1.5 kW a piece), stove (8.5 kW max), water heater (2-3 kW), + other appliances like dishwasher, washing machine etc.

It would seem like that easily trips the breaker, but you won't be charging the car and warming up the sauna at the same time, unless opting to 5.5 kW charging. However, you typically charge the car at night, when the other things running are the heat pumps and the water heater – this will end up drawing around 16 kW total (in the worst case scenario) which fits in the limit. When you don't count the car into the mix, there's plenty of power to go around.

There are multiple reasons behind this. One is our homes are relatively well insulated, which means that we can get by with a lot less AC and heating. Appliances in the EU are also generally more efficient – as an example, our dryers are typically based on heat pumps and pull a lot less amperage for the same performance. Lot of homes also don't have a dryer. Stoves have generally lower power requirements as well, and practically never draw peak power. Here's an example washer+dryer combo where the suggested fuse for the whole thing is 10 A (meaning 2.3 kW available for the combo).

So listing the same appliances you have (at 230 V single phase equivalent for simplicity, i.e. 75 A available (3 * 25))

• level 2 EV charger: 24-48 A depending on chosen speed
• stove: 20 A
• Heat pumps (also used for AC) worst case scenario approx. 15 A, practically only reached for longer periods in extreme cold
• dryer and washing machine: 10 A
• water heater: 16 A

Which will result in 79 A total worst case or 103 A depending on the car charger spec. A bit over the 75 A available, and not calculating additional smaller loads like the microwave, kettle, TV, lighting etc. That worst case will in practice never be reached, though, and even the main breaker typically has some tolerance before it trips (usually main breaker is using a slow-blow fuse equivalent profile, which doesn't immediately trip with a minor overload or a short spike). Our code mandates enough tolerance in wiring gauges that this doesn't pose any risk.

Why don't we want the added headroom then? Upgrading the service from 3x25A to 3x35A isn't really that expensive in urban areas, and can be done relatively simply? Well – Finns are stingy and depending on who happens to own your local distribution grid you can get heavily penalized monetarily in the long term, when upgrading the service to a higher tier. Caruna owns a lot of the Finnish distribution grid nowadays, and as an example from their pricing chart going from 3x25A to 3x35A raises your monthly base rate from 29.71 € to 51.68 €. That's 240 € extra per year, which is a pretty high cost for a just in case that's easily avoided. In cities that still have municipally owned distribution (Lahti, Turku, Helsinki as an example) the costs are typically much lower, both for upgrading the service and monthly costs, compared to the privately owned grids.