cyberwolfie

joined 2 years ago
[–] cyberwolfie@lemmy.ml 1 points 1 day ago

Thanks! I'm saving that link, and I've also saved your list of when you change patterns for future reference.

[–] cyberwolfie@lemmy.ml 2 points 1 day ago (1 children)

That's a nice service, thanks for the share! However, I couldn't quickly get an overview of what metadata may be included in a .3mf file, so I won't upload it for now. Thanks for the offer to look at the file though. :)

[–] cyberwolfie@lemmy.ml 1 points 1 day ago (2 children)

Gyroid infill used to be the default in PrusaSlicer, but they changed it to grid when the MK4 came out with input shaping and much higher speeds. Straight lines gain most from the increased acceleration. Gyroid will now make your printer vibrate like crazy.

Good to know - don't think my neighbors would be all to pleased with additional noise (and not me either).

This is also not cubic infill, that’s another one (which I would recommend over grid for structural pieces). I actually almost always use Adaptive Cubic infill, which saves a lot of filament.

Ah nice, it seems that the adaptive cubic will make larger pockets? Neither cubic nor adaptive cubic seems very... cubic to me, though. Why is it called this?

So far I've not been making any structural pieces, but that is something I will remember for when I do.

I also believe that your print would probably had turned out fine in the end, it doesn’t seem like there were any catastrophic failures in your photos, despite the noise.

Hm, OK, maybe - I think however it would have been difficult for me to keep it going when it sounds like I am destroying the printer for every layer

[–] cyberwolfie@lemmy.ml 2 points 1 day ago (3 children)

Do you know of a secure and private file drop where I could upload the file? I am not to keen to share anything from a personal account here.

[–] cyberwolfie@lemmy.ml 1 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Is there a good way to set it up with a remote?

[–] cyberwolfie@lemmy.ml 1 points 2 days ago

It's how I have been running it for the last two years now. Coupled with Jellyfin, it is such a better experience. My mother just got a new TV - I think I will set up something similar for her.

[–] cyberwolfie@lemmy.ml 2 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Do you run the files through something like MusicBrainz Picard first? I want to uniformly tag all my music anyway, so I would do that regardless of which media server I used, but it could be doing a poor job if it does not have a MusicBrainz ID associated with it?

[–] cyberwolfie@lemmy.ml 1 points 2 days ago (4 children)

Thanks for a very thorough answer!

It’s possible your original Blender design had an issue. Blender is not always kind to 3D printers.

I've had good success with previous Blender files, although this is the first time I've used a boolean operator to cut out anything. I usually use FreeCAD for these custom Gridfinity pieces, but the process of converting the .stl mesh to a solid part in FreeCAD seems a bit error prone (several steps involved), and I haven't yet used booleans in FreeCAD. I could try that again.

The first thing I would tell you is to stop using cubic infill, it is evil. It never always causes me failed prints, especially larger prints. Nozzles often tend to drag across the previous layers and can easily cause failed prints. I can even hear the nozzle hitting the infill as I print. I often recommend gyroid as a good all around infill pattern.

Good to know! I use PrusaSlicer, and this grid infill is the default. The way you describe it sounds like what I experience, and I can in fact see some artifacts when I inspect it closely. Though, the sounds I hear would only start when the concave part starts, and that's also where I see the failures. But that could possibly because there's too much overhang over the cubic infill? Anyway, I checked out gyroid pattern, and it was pretty dense with the 15% default infill value. What type of infill % do you typically use? Seems I could get away with less here.

I look at it and I wonder, does the rolling pin need to be supported full length? A wooden rolling pin is ridged and only needs minimal support on the ends. So I might just design the cradle only at the very ends. And then design the middle to be a simple flat that connects the two end pieces. I might even skip the middle altogether and just print the ends. That saves the most material and time and still does the job perfectly.

You mean an open container with maximum depth and width between the ends that holds the ridges? That could be a good way. They way I ended up doing it was essentially just a rectangular cut-out which worked fine and is similar to your suggestion (although I could save more material doing it your way), but feels less custom... as if that is a goal in itself. I would not like the gap by just printing the ends though, as I wouldn't be able to squeeze anything else underneath and it would not look right to me. Wish I didn't think like that, so I could save material, but I know myself enough that I would be annoyed every time I opened the drawer...

When it comes to slicing your print, orientation matters. How you support overhangs can be tricky and often compromises must be made. While I will use the auto supports as often as I can, sometimes you just need to use paint on supports to get what you needwhere you need it. Pay attention to the top zed support gap. The defaults are never right. I always open them up more. With a .40mm nozzle, I use a .265mm gap. For a .60mm nozzle, a .365mm gap. You might even need to print your parts at an angle. Often tipping the part at 30 to 45 degree angle can make those nasty over hangs completely printable without supports. And this is only a good beginning. How fast you might print an overhang matters, the amount of cooling fan can affect the over hang, lots of fine details that you will learn about as you keep doing this.

This I will need to read up on more. I don't actually use supports for these Gridfinity prints (but PrusaSlicer does warn me about potential instability...). The printer handles the overhang between the grids fairly well, but I guess I didn't think about the long lines crossing the infill. In other prints I've only used the auto supports. Could I ask you what slicer you use?

Good Luck and never fear making a mistake!

Thanks! I must admit I do fear it sometimes when the printer makes some weird noises...

 

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ml/post/36080579

I got a Prusa CORE One earlier this year, and so far I've been very happy. I have not ventured outside of the default settings though, and I use their own filament (only PLA). This has worked perfectly fine so far, but now I ran into an issue, and I figure it's time to come out of the "default settings"-bubble and learn some more about this stuff.

I am trying to print a Gridfinity holder for a rolling pin, so I tried to cut out a appropriately sized cylinder in a template with a boolean operator in Blender. When the print got to the concave portion, the print started to fail - uncertain how to best explain it, but the overhangs over the infill did not properly bridge and the filament started to warp so that the print head would hit it on the next pass (and make some nasty scratching sounds). I stopped the print when I noticed this. See an image here:

I am uncertain whether this is due to the model being poorly optimized for 3D-printing, if the printer settings for the filament were off or if I could've tweaked the slicing settings to achieve a better result.

Is it obvious, looking at the image, what the primary reason for this failure is?

Note: I've ended up printing this again already with a regular rectangular cutout instead of a cylindrical one, so I am just trying to learn more about what made this fail to learn more.

 

I got a Prusa CORE One earlier this year, and so far I've been very happy. I have not ventured outside of the default settings though, and I use their own filament (only PLA). This has worked perfectly fine so far, but now I ran into an issue, and I figure it's time to come out of the "default settings"-bubble and learn some more about this stuff.

I am trying to print a Gridfinity holder for a rolling pin, so I tried to cut out a appropriately sized cylinder in a template with a boolean operator in Blender. When the print got to the concave portion, the print started to fail - uncertain how to best explain it, but the overhangs over the infill did not properly bridge and the filament started to warp so that the print head would hit it on the next pass (and make some nasty scratching sounds). I stopped the print when I noticed this. See an image here:

I am uncertain whether this is due to the model being poorly optimized for 3D-printing, if the printer settings for the filament were off or if I could've tweaked the slicing settings to achieve a better result.

Is it obvious, looking at the image, what the primary reason for this failure is?

Note: I've ended up printing this again already with a regular rectangular cutout instead of a cylindrical one, so I am just trying to learn more about what made this fail to learn more.

[–] cyberwolfie@lemmy.ml 9 points 3 days ago

That is also my experience. People are certainly opinionated which could be interpreted as hostility in some cases, but most people are willing to share and help when someone less knowledgable have gotten stuck with something.

[–] cyberwolfie@lemmy.ml 6 points 3 days ago (3 children)

What kind of issues are you experiencing with Jellyfin? It has worked perfectly for me, but I see the sentiment repeated many times so I guess it's not that uncommon to experience issues. I run it via Docker, mount volumes like I do with other media types, and add properly tagged music in an Artist/Album directory hierarchy. No special tweaking.

[–] cyberwolfie@lemmy.ml 2 points 4 days ago (1 children)

You could look up 3Blue1Brown's explainers on YouTube, they are pretty good and shows a lot of visual examples. He has a lot of other videos on other areas of math.

[–] cyberwolfie@lemmy.ml 2 points 5 days ago

You can export your data from Spotify, and use that as a basis for downloading songs via for example yt-dlp (this can be automated), or slowly build it up again over time in whatever system you set up by buying the albums/compilations containing the songs.

 

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ml/post/35272958

I am looking into getting a BOSS RC-5 looping pedal for my guitar, and I am curious if anyone has any experience with using it with Linux?

It makes use of this BOSS Tone Studio to allow adding additional backing tracks, but it is only officially supported for Windows and macOS. I could not find many examples of people using it on Linux, but for the most part any discussion I could find was in the context of their amplifiers.

I wonder if it should be straightforward to run it through Wine? As far as I can tell, you only need to set it up as a storage medium and connect it to your machine, although you can't just drag the files directly onto it.

It is not a deal breaker for me if I can't get it working, but it would certainly be a benefit if I could.

 

I am looking into getting a BOSS RC-5 looping pedal for my guitar, and I am curious if anyone has any experience with using it with Linux?

It makes use of this BOSS Tone Studio to allow adding additional backing tracks, but it is only officially supported for Windows and macOS. I could not find many examples of people using it on Linux, but for the most part any discussion I could find was in the context of their amplifiers.

I wonder if it should be straightforward to run it through Wine? As far as I can tell, you only need to set it up as a storage medium and connect it to your machine, although you can't just drag the files directly onto it.

It is not a deal breaker for me if I can't get it working, but it would certainly be a benefit if I could.

 

Recently at work I've been thrown into running some Python scripts in a Docker container (all previous Docker-experience is limited to pulling images from container registries to host some stuff at home). It's a fairly simple script, but I want to do two things simultaneously that I have so far been unable to accomplish: redirecting some prints to a file while also allowing the script to run a cleanup process when it gets a SIGTERM. I'm posting this here because I think this is mainly signal handling thing in Linux, but maybe it's more Docker specific (or even Docker Swarm)?

I'm not on my work computer now, but the entrypoint in the Dockerfile is basically something like this:

ENTRYPOINT ['/bin/bash', '-c', 'python', 'my_script.py', '|', 'tee', 'some_file.txt']

Once I started piping, the signal handling in my script stopped working when the containers were shut down. If I understood it correctly it's because tee becomes the main process (or at least the main child of the main process which is bash?) and Python is deferred to the background and thus never gets the signal to terminate gracefully. But surely there must be some elegant way to make sure it also gets it?

And yes, I understand I can rewrite my script to handle this directly, and that is my plan for work tomorrow, but I want to understand this better to broaden my Linux-knowledge. But my head was spinning after reading up on this (I got lost at trap), and I was hoping someone here had a succinct explanation on what is going on under the hood here?

 

Sad news - I have been very happy with CalyxOS, and not sure if I would want to continue using it without security updates or move to another ROM on my Fairphone 4. It seems perhaps that I would anyway need to reflash when they get to the point of resuming updates? Anyone get a clearer reading on that than me?

I have been contemplating trying out Ubuntu Touch which has according to their site 100% compatability with Fairphone 4 now, but there are some functionality that I think would struggle without, and if I can't get it working as I want, I wouldn't be able to reflash CalyxOS now. Getting a new phone to install GrapheneOS is not an option for me.

What are other people here using CalyxOS going to do to maintain a modicum of privacy on their mobile devices?

 

I am contemplating getting a stand mixer for baking purposes, and I've always known KitchenAid as the default choice here. I would instead want something European-made, but I am unfamiliar with the landscape.

Do any of you have any experience with European models, such as the Ankarsum or Bosch OptiMUM (what kind of name is that??), or any other?

I have a good food processor and blender from before, so I don't need it to be able to handle all kinds of things that stand mixers are not meant for, but if there's some extensibility beyond just kneading that I wouldn't otherwise be able to achieve with those devices, that would be a plus.

 

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ml/post/33469454

(Cross-posting this across several communities in hopes of getting some discussion.)

I'm currently building some indoor climate sensors for my home. My idea is to have temperature, humidity, noise, light, VOC and CO2 readings at a relatively high frequency reporting to my MQTT server.

I am currently setting up some different temperature sensors, and I want to calibrate them (hopefully just a linear offset) and evaluate them on some metrics, such as sensor-to-sensor consistency and accuracy.

To calibrate and evaluate the accuracy, I would need a source of truth, and ideally I would also be able to cycle it through a range of realistic values for the given metric.

What are your strategies to tackling these things? Do you assume the sensors are already well-calibrated and don't bother with this? Do you have a dedicated reader for any sensor value you would want to calibrate?

 

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ml/post/33469454

(Cross-posting this across several communities in hopes of getting some discussion.)

I'm currently building some indoor climate sensors for my home. My idea is to have temperature, humidity, noise, light, VOC and CO2 readings at a relatively high frequency reporting to my MQTT server.

I am currently setting up some different temperature sensors, and I want to calibrate them (hopefully just a linear offset) and evaluate them on some metrics, such as sensor-to-sensor consistency and accuracy.

To calibrate and evaluate the accuracy, I would need a source of truth, and ideally I would also be able to cycle it through a range of realistic values for the given metric.

What are your strategies to tackling these things? Do you assume the sensors are already well-calibrated and don't bother with this? Do you have a dedicated reader for any sensor value you would want to calibrate?

 

(Cross-posting this across several communities in hopes of getting some discussion.)

I'm currently building some indoor climate sensors for my home. My idea is to have temperature, humidity, noise, light, VOC and CO2 readings at a relatively high frequency reporting to my MQTT server.

I am currently setting up some different temperature sensors, and I want to calibrate them (hopefully just a linear offset) and evaluate them on some metrics, such as sensor-to-sensor consistency and accuracy.

To calibrate and evaluate the accuracy, I would need a source of truth, and ideally I would also be able to cycle it through a range of realistic values for the given metric.

What are your strategies to tackling these things? Do you assume the sensors are already well-calibrated and don't bother with this? Do you have a dedicated reader for any sensor value you would want to calibrate?

 

I am one of those guilty of always intending to donate, but never really getting to it. But now I sat down and took the time to donate to some of the projects that provide great value for me, and also listed the ones I did not donate to now for future donations. I also set up an overview to track where I donate to, so that I make sure to spread the donations well over time.

Just a friendly reminder to consider donating to the projects that provide value to you if you have the means!

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submitted 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) by cyberwolfie@lemmy.ml to c/privacy@lemmy.ml
 

As we all know, privacy starts with security, which leads many people in this community to seek out secure services / software, some relentlessly so.

Then life happens, and suddenly you find yourself naked in a back alley in Hanoi (or if you already live in the region, you might instead find yourself naked in Santiago de Chile), stripped of all belongings and at best some vague recollection of an unusually good night. What is your strategy to regain access to what you need to get back home?

An no, the staff at the hotel does not recognize you.

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