I've printed a couple of spools at different sizes, it's really kind of nice to have them. Particularly smaller spools for smaller sample lengths, super worth it.

But another thing you can do is just print a little single-wall cylinder that friction fits inside one of your existing spools, then cut the existing (non-printed) spool in half down the middle and use the cylinder as a friction-fit sleeve to hold the two halves together. That also gives you the same functionality. It's not as cool but it saves on filament? ^_^

Eyyy, someone else playing with PHA!

I have a bunch of PHA commentary (and experimentation) over on the kbin 3d-printing group:

https://kbin.social/m/3DPrinting/t/40862/PHA-filament-heat-resistance-testing

Yeah, under the build plate there are four bolts pointing down. Those bolts.

It has pegs but I was able to see that there are rather typical screw heads in the heating plate to hold it down onto the bed's support frame, and if you look you can see the bolt ends coming down out of the underside of the supporting arms.

So I think what's here is pretty simple: regular bolts with fixed length spacer tubes around them.

And that means that OP should be able to sort this out with, say, the right collection of 0.5mm-thick washers. One on the front left screw, three on the right rear screw, uh, six on the back left screw should get close enough for the mesh to handle the remaining difference.

HVAC assist system. It cut our peak electricity bill by 40% year over year under similar conditions, too, with substantially better performance.

But really it's very simple. All I'm doing is improving the effectiveness of very traditional methods of temperature control by being more accurate and much more aggressive about exchanging air in and out when appropriate. Obviously in the middle of a 90-110F heat wave that's not going to matter, so it's more of a northern thing - but it really does a great deal in a lot of climates. (And in spring and autumn in more southern climates, I suppose.)

One of the key elements is that outdoor temperature varies a lot from point to point on the property, so we have air exchange measured at five points around the house, keyed to local indoor vs. local outdoor air temperature. (And air quality and a few other things, of course.) The actual air exchange is a combination of the original air-exchange system plus just opening and closing windows. We overcool at night with air exchange so we're always below ambient outdoor temperature during the day.

It's remarkably effective. We went from... well, it varied a lot, but +7 to +10 F above ambient to -7 to -5 below. (I was doing all this in C internally but F because I was talking about it to Americans.)

Again, I'm in an environment where this is particularly effective, but it costs so little and saves so much money and energy use I have to think it has some general utility many places.

Here are some of my posts about it:

https://solarbird.net/blog/tag/ambient-hvac/

Yeah, I guess that makes sense. More sense than the Magic Mouse, at least. xD

Thanks! And honestly it's one of the best parts of 3D printing, being able to come up with things like this.

The really annoying part is that the indoor matching sensor, the companion to this one? That USB port sticks out the side, like it was designed by a sane person. xD

I do, but with a temperature tower. You get top and sides, curves and spanning, overhangs, and, well... temperature. ^_^

Absolutely not. I have nothing against the actor but yeah. Jim Carey every time.

oh that's pretty great :D

When my house got electricity in 1924, they got a backlit front light for over the doorway. It wasn't in good shape when we found it, but it was there, and I got it back together - except for the lighting. Which this really, really makes me want to fix now. :D

Having done this, you can also get a "3D pen" that will work with your filament and that'll work decently well for small areas, and you can also use it to fill in gaps. Overheat the PLA a bit and work fast.

Oh wow, that looks hilarious, but in a fuck yeah you mad lad way. Is it the tower resonating or the part you're printing? If it's the tower I'd bet money you could solve the last of the problems with some kind of wall attachment for the tower. (Clip if you actually do haul it around, bracket if you don't.)

I had similarly good luck with a height mod on my 3V2 but that thing has a lot more mass to it, I expected it to work. I would not have expected this to work.