this post was submitted on 13 May 2025
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I got a new Biqu H2V2 for my Ender 3 pro , since myold hotend started getting unreliable and that was a great excuse for yet another upgrade.

I wasn't happy with the carriage holder I printed, so I wanted to print a new one. After afew hours of printing, I needed to abandon one part, since it was incredibly messy with blobs of PLA gooped on the print. Since I needed the new carriage mount, I didn't think anything off it and simply abandoned that part and continued the other ones.

Today, I saw that the heating block is completely gooped up with PLA (see pictures). So now, I got two questions:

  1. How should I remove that gunk? I was thinking o| carefully peeling of everything without the silicone sleeve while the hotend is at a low PLA-bending temp, like 150°C, or 175°C.
  2. What caused this? Flowrate too high (the prints look the part)? Too fast extrusion? Heatcreep?

Thanks in advance. (:

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[–] Prunebutt@slrpnk.net 2 points 10 hours ago (1 children)

and you may need to run a tap through the heater block to clean the threads

I've cleaned the outside, but I don't know what you mead by that. Could you explain how I fix the threading?

[–] Fenderfreek@lemmy.world 1 points 3 hours ago* (last edited 3 hours ago)

Most nozzles and heat breaks have M6x1mm threads, so they’re pretty standard (double check yours specifically). Lightly chasing the heater block threads with a tap should clean out any gunk and ensure that your heatbreak and nozzle threads engage properly when you reassemble everything again, and that things get torqued together correctly.

If your heatbreak tube and nozzle don’t have any ptfe liners or anything, using a propane/butane torch to cook the PLA to carbon and wire-brushing it off is a fast way to get those threads clean.

If it’s all super gunked up, and you don’t wanna buy tools, you can generally buy just the heat break, heater block, and nozzle together pretty cheaply for most common hot end designs