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I use Headscale, but Tailscale is a great service and what I generally recommend to strangers who want to approximate my setup. The tradeoffs are pretty straightforward:
Tailscale is great, and there's no compelling reason that should prevent most self-hosters that want it from using it. I use Headscale because I can and I'm comfortable doing so... But they're both awesome options.
Does Headscale require additional work to deal with NAT traversal on clients? Or is it just for the controller node itself?
You connect to Headscale using the tailscale clients, and configuration is exactly the same irrespective of which control server you use... with the exception of having to configure the custom server url with Headscale (which requires navigating some hoops and poor docs for mobile/windows clients).
But to my knowledge there are no client-side configs related to NAT traversal (which is kind of the goal... to work seamlessly everywhere). The configs themselves on the headscale server aren't so bad either, but the networking concepts involved are extremely advanced, so debugging if anything goes sideways or validating that your server-side NAT traversal setup is working as expected can be a deep dive. With Tailscale, you know any problems are client-side and can focus your attention accordingly... which simplifies initial debugging quite a lot.