this post was submitted on 13 Sep 2025
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cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ml/post/36080579

I got a Prusa CORE One earlier this year, and so far I've been very happy. I have not ventured outside of the default settings though, and I use their own filament (only PLA). This has worked perfectly fine so far, but now I ran into an issue, and I figure it's time to come out of the "default settings"-bubble and learn some more about this stuff.

I am trying to print a Gridfinity holder for a rolling pin, so I tried to cut out a appropriately sized cylinder in a template with a boolean operator in Blender. When the print got to the concave portion, the print started to fail - uncertain how to best explain it, but the overhangs over the infill did not properly bridge and the filament started to warp so that the print head would hit it on the next pass (and make some nasty scratching sounds). I stopped the print when I noticed this. See an image here:

I am uncertain whether this is due to the model being poorly optimized for 3D-printing, if the printer settings for the filament were off or if I could've tweaked the slicing settings to achieve a better result.

Is it obvious, looking at the image, what the primary reason for this failure is?

Note: I've ended up printing this again already with a regular rectangular cutout instead of a cylindrical one, so I am just trying to learn more about what made this fail to learn more.

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[–] cyberwolfie@lemmy.ml 1 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Gyroid infill used to be the default in PrusaSlicer, but they changed it to grid when the MK4 came out with input shaping and much higher speeds. Straight lines gain most from the increased acceleration. Gyroid will now make your printer vibrate like crazy.

Good to know - don't think my neighbors would be all to pleased with additional noise (and not me either).

This is also not cubic infill, that’s another one (which I would recommend over grid for structural pieces). I actually almost always use Adaptive Cubic infill, which saves a lot of filament.

Ah nice, it seems that the adaptive cubic will make larger pockets? Neither cubic nor adaptive cubic seems very... cubic to me, though. Why is it called this?

So far I've not been making any structural pieces, but that is something I will remember for when I do.

I also believe that your print would probably had turned out fine in the end, it doesn’t seem like there were any catastrophic failures in your photos, despite the noise.

Hm, OK, maybe - I think however it would have been difficult for me to keep it going when it sounds like I am destroying the printer for every layer

[–] anguo@piefed.ca 1 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Ah nice, it seems that the adaptive cubic will make larger pockets? Neither cubic nor adaptive cubic seems very... cubic to me, though. Why is it called this?

Adaptive cubic does indeed make larger pockets in areas that are far away from walls. As for the name, I myself imagine cuboid shapes standing on one corner. Prusa has a great page on different infill types: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/infill-patterns_177130. The only advantage I can think of for grid infill (that you're using) is that it reportedly makes better flat top surfaces.

I manage a few Prusa printers at a school, and have set the default profiles to use 15% adaptive cubic infill.

I change the infill in the following cases:

  • Large decorative item: Support cubic.
  • Piece that requires strength: Cubic , 20%, maybe add an extra perimeter
  • Very thin & tall parts: Rectilinear
  • Thin & flat: Grid

Hm, OK, maybe - I think however it would have been difficult for me to keep it going when it sounds like I am destroying the printer for every layer

I wasn't there to hear it, I might have felt the same :)

[–] cyberwolfie@lemmy.ml 1 points 2 days ago

Thanks! I'm saving that link, and I've also saved your list of when you change patterns for future reference.