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submitted 8 months ago* (last edited 8 months ago) by GlassHalfHopeful@lemmy.ca to c/greenspace@beehaw.org

Photo Description

Top Left: Tree unbalanced. Left side producing little. Right side producing well.

Top Right: Shown from opposite side. Full limbs visible without flowering.

Bottom left: Close up of the left side of the tree. Several branches not flowering down full length.

Bottom right: Closer view of the graft and up.

Please do ask for any more clarifying photos if you think it would help.

Questions:

  • The tree just started blooming this week. Is it too late to start pruning or should I wait until Autumn?

  • Pruning the tree is going to make it even more lopsided than it already is. Would you all recommend trimming back the healthy branches so it's not so heavy on one side?

  • This website gives the advice below. Any thoughts otherwise?

Thank you all so much!


How to Prune a Weeping Cherry Tree

The different types of weeping cherries can grow to between eight and 40 feet tall. Proper pruning keeps these trees looking beautiful and can prevent the development and spread of diseases. Prune while the tree is dormant (no flowers or leaves on the branches) in early spring or late fall. Take the following steps once a year with bypass pruning shears or a pole pruner.

  • Cut back any branches that contact the ground until they’re at least six inches off the ground.
  • Remove branches that are rubbing against each other.
  • Trim back branches that are closer than two inches apart.
  • Remove dead branches.
  • Remove stems or branches growing out of the trunk or around the base of the tree (a.k.a. suckers).
  • Trim back the tips of the branches around the perimeter of the canopy until it’s a balanced, uniform shape.
  • Remove branches that are growing straight up on grafted cherry trees because they will continue to grow upward instead of weeping down.
  • Thin out the mangled cluster of branches that often develops near the base of the canopy of grafted trees.
  • Remove diseased branches as soon as they’re discovered, regardless of the time of year. Sterilize the blade of your cutting tool in between cuts to prevent disease spread.
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[-] GlassHalfHopeful@lemmy.ca 2 points 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago)

Does anyone happen to know why this sap has formed and what it might mean?

CC: @LibertyLizard@slrpnk.net, @LallyLuckFarm@beehaw.org, @Devi@beehaw.org

I hope you don't mind me tagging you.

[-] LallyLuckFarm@beehaw.org 2 points 7 months ago

I agree with @Devi that it could be a number of things, and would echo @LibertyLizard's suggestion to check your local extension office's information to cross reference possible issues.

[-] Devi@beehaw.org 2 points 7 months ago

It's basically impossible to know without more information. This is a nice article I found that seems to take you over the possibilities - https://titantreeaz.com/blog/why-is-sap-oozing-from-my-trees-trunk

[-] LibertyLizard@slrpnk.net 1 points 7 months ago

https://orchardpeople.com/gummosis-on-cherry-trees/

Basically it’s the tree’s way of protecting itself in response to some injury, pest, or disease. Since it’s small and often hard to specifically diagnose the cause I wouldn’t stress too much about it other than to monitor and see if it starts to grow or spread or resolves naturally.

[-] GlassHalfHopeful@lemmy.ca 2 points 7 months ago

Thank you! The link was also helpful. It reminded me how I saw spots on the leaves and I want to get a good close look this year and figure out what I can do about that.

this post was submitted on 16 Mar 2024
48 points (100.0% liked)

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