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ErgoMechKeyboards
Ergonomic, split and other weird keyboards
Rules
Keep it ergo
Posts must be of/about keyboards that have a clear delineation between the left and right halves of the keyboard, column stagger, or both. This includes one-handed (one half doesn't exist, what clearer delineation is that!?)
i.e. no regular non-split¹ row-stagger and no non-split¹ ortholinear²
¹ split meaning a separation of the halves, whether fixed in place or entirely separate, both are fine.
² ortholinear meaning keys layed out in a grid
No Spam
No excessive posting/"shilling" for commercial purposes. Vendors are permitted to promote their products/services but keep it to a minimum and use the [vendor] flair. Posts that appear to be marketing without being transparent about it will be removed.
No Buy/Sell/Trade
This subreddit is not a marketplace, please post on r/mechmarket or other relevant marketplace.
Some useful links
- EMK wiki
- Split keyboard compare tool
- Compare keycap profiles Looking for another set of keycaps - check this site to compare the different keycap profiles https://www.keycaps.info/
- Keymap database A database with all kinds of keymap layouts - some of them fits ergo keyboards - get inspired https://keymapdb.com/
I have successfully driven a chain of RGBs from a Xiao controller, although not running ZMK. One thing you could do is write a little Arduino program to just drive the RGBs, and that will let you isolate whether it's the hardware or ZMK.
One easy thing to check on the hardware side: Are you running the power to the RGBs at 5v or 3.3V? The logic voltage of the Xiao is 3.3v, so you either need to power the RGBs from the 3.3v pin (out of spec but it will work fine, probably) or if you are powering the RGBs from 5v then you need to shift the voltage level of the data pin up from 3.3v to something closer to 5v. The RGBs compare the voltage on the data line to their power voltage to decide what's a 1 vs 0 on the data line. 3.3v is low enough below 5v that the RGBs will interpret the digital signal as entirely 0s
I am using this trick to convert the logic input to 5V, so that should work. Super hacky, but as far as I checked, every piece of this hack is entirely in spec for the components used.
I'll check with a simple Arduino program first I guess
UPDATE: Arduino program works, so it is not a hardware issue (lucky me)