Damn, I think I've had enough mountain driving for the whole year. I've had an amazing time but I'm exhausted!!!! Hours of single lane winding roads in the rain and fog with local drivers paying no attention to the speed limits, I've definitely tested my driving skills to the max. This little Yaris I've rented has been perfect for the drive though. The steering is definitely much more light and responsive than what I'm used to in Australia.

e: after some thought I think I'll regretfully can the Shimanami Kaido cycling part of my trip. It's just too complicated and expensive, what with mailing my luggage ahead and hopping between accommodation, not to mention bike rentals and having the wrong kind of bag and paying $55 just for the train back that way.

As much as I want to have more of an active experience and don't want to be that kind of traveller... I think I could get more from a nice accom in a quiet part of Tokyo for 4 days and do more walking and journalling and visiting some cool museums and the like.