this post was submitted on 02 Sep 2025
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bike wrench

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I've put off the overhaul of my ebike's Bafang G510 mid-drive motor for so long that it has never actually been serviced since I bought it 3800 km ago. Over the past weeks, I slowly pulled the motor off the bike, carefully disassembled it, and found the rotor shaft gear in a poor state. Metal flecks were visible within the blackened grease, making a mess within the housing.

To get the sprockets off of the motor, I did have to obtain a deep-socket YC-29BB tool to remove the "spider" from the crank shaft. A standard wrench for the Bafang lock ring will not work, because the spider itself is in the way.

This motor has an all-metal gear arrangement, consisting of the primary gear axle which is coaxial with the cranks, a secondary gear axle, and a tertiary gear axle which is driven by the rotor shaft gear. It was the gears where the tertiary axle and rotor shafts meet which were substantially ground down, resulting in play between gears that causes additional wear every time the motor accelerates or decelerates.

top down view of dismantled Bafang G510 motor, showing the three reduction axles and the motor axle. The secondary axle has been removed for clarity

Note: some references online say that the G510 pre-2023 had a nylon gear. I could not locate any images of this, and my motor appeared to have all-metal parts. So idk.

Part of the issue is that the tertiary axle used a gear which isn't as deep as the rotor shaft's gear, resulting in wasted gear-to-gear surface area. A newer gear design for both the rotor and tertiary axle came out in 2023, and can be swapped in but requires recalibration of the motor.

So with the motor half disassembled, I figured the only sensible way forward was to order both the new rotor shaft and new tertiary axle, plus the CAN bus-specific Bafang dealer tool to perform the recalibration. I purchased these from greenbikekit.com, which didn't have the most intuitive ordering process but they did deliver in the end.

Perhaps the most arduous process was cleaning out all the old grease, which requires some solvent to shift. And even then, some crevices were unreachable without a very long cotton swab. In any case, I then re-greased using Permatex 80345 white lithium grease, since this has a higher temperature rating than typical white lithium grease, according to its data sheet. I obtained this from the local auto parts store, and this was the best I could get locally; Mobilgrease 28 was not available near me.

For the recalibration procedure, I knew that I wouldn't have -- nor would want to register for -- the Bafang dealer software to use with the programmer tool. Also, I'm a believer in the right-to-repair and having to beg for software is antithetical to this notion. Fortunately, someone has a FOSS project that can control the programmer and issue the recalibration command, among other neat features.

After dealing with a file permissions issue for /dev/usbhid2, the programmer was able to issue the calibration and the motor was set for reinstallation into the frame. This was basically all the earlier steps in reverse.

During testing, it is notable how much the new gears add the characteristic "whirling" sound of an electric motor. However, because the play within the gears was reduced and with new grease added, I found that the overall noise signature of the motor is substantially reduced. Also appreciated is how much less current the motor draws when riding at speed, compared to before the overhaul.

While it did take a while to assemble the parts and procedure for this endeavor, I am pleased with the results and would suggest periodic re-greasing for ebikes in regular service.

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[–] avidamoeba@lemmy.ca 4 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago)

Excellent writeup!

This makes me appreciate the nylon gears in my hub. Nylon gears, when operated within safe temps are a spectacular hack. The motor rotor has tiny puny little gear that would have been ground to dust if it interfaced with metal gears. Instead I haven't serviced my hub since I installed it in 2018. It's probably got around 20000km on it. Of course I can't climb any steep gradients with it. :D A long time ago I used to scoff at manufacturers using nylon gears in their motors.

[–] socsa@piefed.social 2 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Curious if you notice any wh/mi reduction after the rebuild.

[–] litchralee@sh.itjust.works 2 points 3 weeks ago

I intend to do a full run from 100% battery to near zero, once the weather is a bit fairer. I would hope that there's a noticeable improvement.

[–] n3m37h@sh.itjust.works 2 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

This is the exact reason why I got a direct drive bike, Im too lazy to do this

[–] litchralee@sh.itjust.works 3 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) (1 children)

I had an... oddball use-case where gears -- whether internal or through a derailleur -- were necessary for speed. That said, I once tried my hand at servicing a geared hub motor, and while that was to replace the motor wires that got snagged, I did apply some more grease when putting it back together. And I didn't think it was terribly onerous.

The main complexity was doing motor work while having to take care of the whole wheel, with spokes and tires still mounted. I much prefer the modular simplicity of a mid-drive motor, since it doesn't complicate tire changes at all. But it's certainly a tradeoff, yes.

[–] n3m37h@sh.itjust.works 1 points 3 weeks ago (1 children)

Who says a direct drive cant go fast? Ive got an Aostormotor S18-1500w and it does 50-55kph (30-33 freedom units)

I know It's not hard but that still takes quite some time to disassemble/assemble.

[–] litchralee@sh.itjust.works 1 points 3 weeks ago

Fair enough. Though I'm somewhat reluctant to reinvent the wheel -- pun intended -- when gear reduction and fast-spinning electric motors have been honed for nearly a century.

I suppose the other metric is how much power a direct drive motor can produce, but that's primarily a consideration if high acceleration or heavy hauling is needed.

[–] Wahots@pawb.social 1 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) (1 children)

Thank you! I have a bafang hub, but I'm still saving this as many of the links are good to know, particularly the lithium grease.

Edit: damn, those prices on green bike kit are good. What's the catch? Long delivery times?

[–] litchralee@sh.itjust.works 2 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) (2 children)

If you do place an order, I'd also recommend getting the replacement gaskets for both sides of the motor housing. The existing gasket might stick or may not come off in one piece, and gaskets are so cheap that you might as well have a spare. Really, anything consumable that's less than $10, ought to be thrown into the order.

The catch? Hmm, I'd say it's the confusing ordering process, such as knowing which shipping option to select. Fortunately, Anna from that shop emailed me when I chose the wrong shipping option for the USA and made the correction. It took 8 calendar days to arrive, with very minimal tracking updates in the interim.

Time will tell if I chose correctly with using white lithium grease, but my research showed that: 1) the grease need to be sufficiently heavy to not fling off of the gears when spinning fast, but also 2) needs to be heat resistant, because the motor and housing can get fairly warm at full output, which would break down low-temperture grease. So I hope I chose correctly, and I'll find out in about 1500 km.

[–] Wahots@pawb.social 2 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago)

That's great. This site has my same battery for hundreds of dollars less than Amazon, which sounds too good to be true, haha.

Glad they are out there, I'm at 4,000km and I've heard reports of the motor eating my gearing at 4,500km. Time will tell if I need to order planetary gearing from this site soon.

...though I suspect people might have melted down their nylon gears from revving too hard on steep, prolonged hills without pedaling. Whatever the case, I highly doubt my motor is still in mint condition.

[–] Wahots@pawb.social 1 points 3 weeks ago

Also, I'll have to check gaskets. I don't know if mine has gaskets, in videos of similar hub motors, I've never seen any. If they do sell them, I would definitely get some for waterproofing.