bike wrench

I picked up some cheap rims but the part that rests in the dropouts is too wide, I haven't measured it but it looks like it would be possible to use percussive coersion. How dangerous would it be to do that or shave it down just a bit? The fork is aluminum.

I'll add photos when I get back home

This tire has about 300mi on it and I am already missing a good chunk of rubber in this spot

I am riding fixed 46x17 so I have plenty of skid patches.

The Ultra Sport III I replaced was pretty evenly worn by the time I removed it

I mainly run Gatorskins but they typically hold up better. Is anyone else noticed a quality issue?

Sorry, might be a stupid question, I have literally no idea about bikes!

What I'm looking to do is figure out whether there are any modern-ish ebike motors on the market that I could swap my current motor with (I'm assuming I'd be swapping all the other innards to fit that motor too, so dw about battery compatibility and the like). All I know about the current Motor is that it's a 250W Panasonic motor from around 2011. I asked the mechanic at my bike shop whether I could just toss one of those Bafang conversion kits on the bike but he said the way that my pedals sit within the motor would be incompatible with that and I'd need to get an actual ebike motor, not a conversion motor.

So now I'm trying to find information on current Panasonic motors and what sort of frames they need to fit, but I'm having a hard time because I have no idea how to even call this kind of spacing on the frame. Does anyone have an idea on what to call it/describe it as? Or is is a proprietary thing that I'd need a welder to rework? (Totally an option if push comes to shove, I know a guy)

Some more pictures from as many angles as I could get into (should I be getting measurements of any of these?):

spoiler

I've put off the overhaul of my ebike's Bafang G510 mid-drive motor for so long that it has never actually been serviced since I bought it 3800 km ago. Over the past weeks, I slowly pulled the motor off the bike, carefully disassembled it, and found the rotor shaft gear in a poor state. Metal flecks were visible within the blackened grease, making a mess within the housing.

To get the sprockets off of the motor, I did have to obtain a deep-socket YC-29BB tool to remove the "spider" from the crank shaft. A standard wrench for the Bafang lock ring will not work, because the spider itself is in the way.

This motor has an all-metal gear arrangement, consisting of the primary gear axle which is coaxial with the cranks, a secondary gear axle, and a tertiary gear axle which is driven by the rotor shaft gear. It was the gears where the tertiary axle and rotor shafts meet which were substantially ground down, resulting in play between gears that causes additional wear every time the motor accelerates or decelerates.

Note: some references online say that the G510 pre-2023 had a nylon gear. I could not locate any images of this, and my motor appeared to have all-metal parts. So idk.

Part of the issue is that the tertiary axle used a gear which isn't as deep as the rotor shaft's gear, resulting in wasted gear-to-gear surface area. A newer gear design for both the rotor and tertiary axle came out in 2023, and can be swapped in but requires recalibration of the motor.

So with the motor half disassembled, I figured the only sensible way forward was to order both the new rotor shaft and new tertiary axle, plus the CAN bus-specific Bafang dealer tool to perform the recalibration. I purchased these from greenbikekit.com, which didn't have the most intuitive ordering process but they did deliver in the end.

Perhaps the most arduous process was cleaning out all the old grease, which requires some solvent to shift. And even then, some crevices were unreachable without a very long cotton swab. In any case, I then re-greased using Permatex 80345 white lithium grease, since this has a higher temperature rating than typical white lithium grease, according to its data sheet. I obtained this from the local auto parts store, and this was the best I could get locally; Mobilgrease 28 was not available near me.

For the recalibration procedure, I knew that I wouldn't have -- nor would want to register for -- the Bafang dealer software to use with the programmer tool. Also, I'm a believer in the right-to-repair and having to beg for software is antithetical to this notion. Fortunately, someone has a FOSS project that can control the programmer and issue the recalibration command, among other neat features.

After dealing with a file permissions issue for /dev/usbhid2, the programmer was able to issue the calibration and the motor was set for reinstallation into the frame. This was basically all the earlier steps in reverse.

During testing, it is notable how much the new gears add the characteristic "whirling" sound of an electric motor. However, because the play within the gears was reduced and with new grease added, I found that the overall noise signature of the motor is substantially reduced. Also appreciated is how much less current the motor draws when riding at speed, compared to before the overhaul.

While it did take a while to assemble the parts and procedure for this endeavor, I am pleased with the results and would suggest periodic re-greasing for ebikes in regular service.

I just installed a Connex link to join a KMC X9 chain and I'm noticing that whenever the link goes through the derailleur hanger, it causes it to move a bit, which causes rhythmic noise. Anyone using Connex noticing this? Is it normal?

Hi all,

Wondering if anyone can help me with this question before I spend my money on a different mount for this caliper.

I am going to increase my front rotor size but what is printed on the side of my current mount has me confused. It says 160mm or 180mm implying that this mount can be used for both but surely the pads need to be in a different position for each size of rotor? I can't just bang a 180mm rotor on and change nothing else and expect it to work fine can I?

Can anyone clarify for me what this text on the side of the mount is getting at, am I able to use this mount for the bigger rotor somehow? If so how?

I plan on taking it apart this weekend and trying it out for sizing before I order a different mount but in my mind the caliper would need to be pushed further out to make space for the increase in size for the rotor and was hoping someone could enlighten me on what this text actually means whilst I plan the work in my head :D

Hi all, I just built up a Specialized Aethos and the 10R carbon frame is compatible with mechanical shifting. I installed a wireless groupset and now I have to deal with this hole at the bottom bracket region, where the shifting cables would exit the frame. The plastic rails for the cables need the cables to be kept in place and even though there were covers for every other hole in the frame, it looks like Specialized doesn’t have one for this (pretty big opening, in a sensible region, very near the road surface…).

I am thinking of covering it with clear frame protector, but maybe someone has some more insight and better solutions? Specialized sells full bikes with electronic groupsets using this frame, so I’m surprised there is no ready OEM solution for it. Might have to go to a Specialized dealer and take a look myself maybe…

Thanks in advance :)

This is an Ultegra 11s chain after 1000km of wear from a 1500W mid-drive. Used to ride a Tangent back in 2016. T'was shredding till it went *clunk*.

If you, like me, are spoiled by the joy of XT/XTR shifters and you find yourself having to use a new, perfectly usable 9-speed drivetrain with an Acera/Alivio shifter, there may be a not-too-costly way out. A quick look online shows that all sub-10-speed Shimano shifters use 1.7 pull ratio. This means one should be able to use high end shifters from the 9-speed era with current 9-speed drivetrains. You could buy an SL-M770 (9-speed) or an SL-M970 off Ebay or anywhere else you could find one and have the nice feel of a high-end shifter without replacing your perfectly serviceable, new 9-speed drivetrain.

I ordered a SL-M770. Will let you know how it goes.

PS: There seems to be a 9-speed CUES shifter that although not as nice as an M770/M970, can do 2-way release, but ~~I can't confirm whether it uses the same pull ratio yet~~ it's not compatible with the 9-speed Alivio (Hyperglide) mech.

Would it work? Any experience with it? According to Sheldon it should but it could lead to suboptimal shifting.

I never repaired anything in my life, but could be a fun way to learn how bikes work. Breaks don't work. Chain and gearing is rusted to hell. Is it too far gone to bother with?

Did a full drivetrain upgrade on my e‑fatbike, since the original 10‑speed 11–36 cassette was completely inadequate for a bike this heavy that’s meant for off‑road use. Swapped it out for an 11‑speed 11–51 cassette, along with a new derailleur, chain, shifter, cable, and housing.

At this point, brakes remain the only component I haven’t installed myself - though that’ll probably change soon, because these SRAM Level brakes are total trash.

If you have a bike problem and you wax your chains, and you really dislike the idea of your connecting link being unwaxed, or having to wax it then scrape the sides to assemble, do this and dip it. All you need is thick wire and pliers/cutters.

I’m having a really odd issue with my e‑fatbike (Bafang M400 mid‑drive). When I’m on the two largest cassette cogs (lowest gears), the motor briefly cuts power ~~once per crank revolution~~ when the wheel magnet passes the speed sensor. It’s a clean on‑off “tick,” almost like the system thinks I stopped pedaling for a split second.

I first noticed this after switching from a 38T front chainring to a 30T. At that point it only happened on the largest cog, never on the others.

I figured it might be caused by the undersized chainring, so I put the original back in and swapped the original 1x10 drivetrain for a 1x11 and went from a 36T largest cog to a 51T. But no - the issue still persists. Now it happens on the largest two cogs. Whether I’m soft‑pedaling or pedaling hard against the brakes doesn’t seem to make any difference. It still “ticks” once per revolution.

I’m out of ideas at this point. Torque sensor, maybe? I have another identical bike with a 1x12 drivetrain and an 11–50T cassette, and it doesn’t do this, so I doubt it’s a compatibility issue. Must be something sensor‑related? With the assist turned off everything runs perfectly, so it’s not mechanical.

EDIT: Upon further inspection it seem that the moment the power cuts out seems to perfectly sync with the wheel speed magnet going past the sensor on the chainstay so I'm like 95% sure that a faulty wheel speed sensor is the issue here. I have a spare part ordered so I'm not sure yet but unless there's a 2nd update to this then it solved the issue.

EDIT2: I figured it out. It wasn't the wheel sensor but related to it: I added a second spoke magnet for that sensor on the opposite side of the wheel and the problem went away. Apparently on low speeds the time between pulses got too long and the power to the motor was cut. In addition to this I also used my Eggrider app to tweak the motor settings so that it knows there's two magnets and not just one. The setting I tweaked is under "Bafang basic settings" and I changed the "Speed meter signal" from 1 to 2 to tell it that there's two magnets.

What's your home setup?

The gear range on this 10-speed 11–36T cassette is completely insufficient for a heavy e-fatbike like this, so I’m upgrading to an 11-speed 11–51T.

Also, I was surprised to find out that the Shimano Deore RD-M5100 derailleur, while it does have a clutch, doesn’t have a cage lock.

It seems like truing stands are either <$100 or >$500 (entry level Park tool TS 2.3) in Canadian dollars.

Are there any decent options that are <$200 or $250 for home use?

The cheap ones seem to have wildly mixed reviews.

I'm looking for a spare derailleur hanger for the Triban RC520 GRVL (Decathlon brand), and the one they list on their site is NOT the correct one (per numerous reviews on international Decathlon sites, but also just visually/dimensions).

Here's what they sell:

Does anyone know if this hanger goes under some other name or model? I've seen other hangers (for other bike brands) listed by number (i.e. "#67").

I've gone over numerous websites that list hangers, and this style just isn't there.

As an added note, the derailleur is a Shimano 105 (RD-R7000), and rather than one side being bolted on, the end of the hanger slides between two "fins", and then a bolt goes through everything.

Any help or direction would be appreciated.

EDIT: Getting close! My good friend Ali seems to have a match:

FINAL UPDATE: Decathlon Canada was able to solve this mystery for me! The part is on their website, but not under "derailleur hanger" as you might expect, but as a "derailleur dropout" and doesn't list the RC520, despite being the exact part: https://www.decathlon.ca/en/p/8611184/derailleur-dropout-edr

As an alternative, I could use the other one they sell + a Shimano "Bracket Axle Unit" P/N Y3F398020, but I'd rather simplify and will wait for stock to return on the standard part.

Is that a know Clarks M2 problem or I have to tight something? It's just a ciinder that should stay there due to its bottom part I guess

Above or below the locknut washer?

So, my Ninebot Max e-scooter has a "loud" front wheel, and when I spin it, the bearing sounds "dry".

I have replacement bearings, but then I noticed this:

When I spin the wheel by hand, it will keep spinning SUPER SMOOTHLY and... no joke... can keep spinning for over 10 minutes! To me, that sounds amazing, and now I'd rather not change the bearings.

Does this make sense? I would imagine the same can happen on a bike wheel.

Should I just leave it? LOL

Hi again. I've got most of the leaks sorted in my gravel bike's new tubeless tires, but they're still going flat, now in about 5 minutes. I did the soap test to determine where the leaks are, and the only leaks I can see are right at the base of the valve stem.

Searching for this online, most answers were "it's the tape". But these wheels are only about 1 year old and the hole at the valve looks clean / flat to me.

I am using Stans valves and have about 4oz of sealant in there right now, if that helps.

Is there any way to resolve this, short of completely re-taping the rim?

Thanks!

Now I have LT, SL-V5010-10, 10s + LT, RD-V5010-LX, 10s and i was wondering if I can keep the shifter and only change the derailleur from ltwoo to shimano

I found the attached schem for Shimano, is there something similar for other brands or a table that collects all major brands products?

Hello Wrenchers, I took the plunge to tubeless this week on my 2022 Cannondale Topstone gravel bike. Getting the tires on wasn't too hard (just messy). I used parts from my local bike store, including 2 new WTB Riddler "TCS" tires, a new valve for each tire, and about 3 ounces of Stans sealent in each tire.

But now that they're on, they're both very slowly leaking. I did the soapy water test and I can see about 5 spots on the front tire and 2 on the back tire where bubbles appear (not at the valve).

Any tips for fixing this?

Thanks!

EDITS: Added a couple of things...