But it's funny
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WD-40
that IS its reason of existance: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40
(full disclosure: I have never tried it. I don't recommend trying it, just keep scrolling.)
This makes me curious how effective that would actually be
It probably depends on the electrical conductivity of WD 40, and whether it corrodes
iirc, WD literally stands for "water displacement". 40 is because it was the 40th formula
It def. doesn't corrode or it would also fuck with machinery.
Fun fact: that's not how humidity works. It, in fact, DOES help to get water to evaporate by forcing the local humidity around the phone to stay low. Otherwise you may as well say all the people doing 3D printing that use desiccant to keep water out of their filaments are fools, too.
What it won't do is magically erase any gunk or minerals that were in the water that can short out traces on unprotected PCBs and chips even with the water gone.
So, yes, it is not magic that can fix any phone that saw water. Though it absolutely helps to get the water out of the phone. ... I mean, unless you live in a desert where the humidity should already be sufficiently low most days.
Sure, but rice is a shitty desiccant. If it weren't, it would cook easier and we would ship things with packets of rice rather than silica gel.
Rice is literally one of the easiest things to cook on the planet.
We probably don't use rice for shipping because if it did get wet it would get moldy, unlike sciatica. Doesn't mean it isn't effective.
Silica gel is a great desiccant. Just because rice cannot match something basically designed for the task, doesn't make it awful.
You might as well be saying, "but my horse cannot run fast! He's always behind Secretariat!"
It makes it awful for the purpose of drying wet electronics. It actually impedes the drying process by preventing air from circulating. Plus rice is typically dusty, and you don't want rice dust in your damp electronics.
You'll have a dryer device much faster if you just point a fan at it.
That depends on your humidity. As I already said, if you're in a desert that's normally dry enough...
If you're not in a desert, though, you'll have to dry the desiccant for it to have an actually significant effect. Though that's true regardless of which desiccant.
Within the phone, general relative humidity is FAR more important than airflow.
Right but none of that makes rice a good enough desiccant to be more effective than airflow. I live in a very humid environment and an hour or so under a fan is sufficient to dry electronics.
lol no. Dried desiccant in a bag will absolutely murder any fan in a humid environment.
An actual desiccant, yes. Rice isn't that.
By definition, yes. Yes it is. It's just not amazing at it.
It may not be an industrial-grade desiccant, but the major advantage of rice is that people tend to have it at home...
Shit I just dropped my phone in the sink! Just give me a minute to hop online... Commercial grade desiccant... 7-10 days shipping... Buy now... Great! In a week I'll have the driest phone ever!
I have a mason jar full of the desiccant packets that come with the random crap I order. I hang on to them in case my phone decides to go swimming. I recommend it to people, but I don't think I've made many converts lol
Just remember that dessicant (including rice) should be dried out in the oven if you're going to expect it to drop humidity below normal ambient humidity. Obviously not baked, but a few hours at ~180F to ~220F will dry out most dessicants. Some are really hydrophillic, though, and might take even higher temps.
Usually the kinds that dry out at lower temps are labeled as reusable or similar terminology. (unless it's a disposable packet, then it's what ever the hell they decided to throw in there).
I didn't know that, thanks!
Good point. I'll use diatomaceous earth next time.
Is this how I debug my phone?
Dammit - now I'm cringing at the thought of datomaceous earth in the USB port!
Thank goodness DE isn't electrically conductive. It would definitely still be awful - the final boss of getting sand in your phone charging port.
I brought a wet AirPod back from the dead last week using rice. It does work, sometimes.
It would have probably been faster to just set it on a windowsill or somewhere with adequate airflow.
You can make your own 90%+ isopropyl if 70% is all that's available. The stronger stuff is better for many/most home cleaning and science projects.
Put your 70% in a jar, add a shitload of salt, give it a shake. Siphon the alcohol off the top. There's a clear boundary layer so you can see what you're doing. It's pretty cool!
Also, most desiccant beads are reusable. Notice the rare, colored bead mixed in there? Those are indicators of how wet the beads are. You can microwave a bowl and recharge them. I cut the tiny packs open and pour in them in a jar for later. Also, paper coffee filters are great for making your own, larger packs.
In any case, open your electronics and pull the battery ASAP. And no, don't try to put it back together any time soon unless you chase the water out with alcohol. Let that shit sit a day or two. One time I pulled an old school monitor out of the rainy trash. Let it sit 48-hours, worked fine.
90% is better for fast drying but for cleaning, 70% is often much better. People forget just how good a solvent water is, and there are plenty of things that dissolve in water but not alcohol (as you've noted, salt is one).
That 70% is most useful for actual cleaning, whereas 90% is likely better for removing any water through mixing and evaporation. Ultimately it depends on which liquid and much of it you got in your device.
best way I've found to isolate and repair water damage is to open it up and apply some high quality liquid rosin to the water damaged areas. then hit it with hot air (300c should be fine) to get the rosin under all chips and connectors. lastly, do not clean the board, it can push the corrosion around and cause more issues.
You are just trolling right?
no. if you want to do component level board repair for water damge, this is how you do it professionally. I've been using this strategy for 5 years or so now and it has much better success rates than just cleaning the board with ipa.
maybe overkill for most people since it requires more specialized tools but if you go to a shop they'll most likely use similar techniques at least to assess the damage
I mean, solder melts at temperatures lower than 300 degrees Celsius.
depends on the type of solder but yeah, I'm not exactly holding it there tho. just high airflow at that temp for a few seconds to push the rosin underneath the chips. helps a lot with bga chips where water can actually get underneath the chip and short connections or leave debris even once evaporated. for actually reworking chips I use around 480c.