[-] jon_slider@lemmy.world 2 points 11 months ago* (last edited 11 months ago)

MAO D2 today.. Love the regulated output w no PWM

https://imgur.com/myH8eeb

[-] jon_slider@lemmy.world 2 points 11 months ago* (last edited 11 months ago)

Wurkkos TS10 MAO w sw45k mod is in my pocket. It is my favorite TS10.

picture album: https://imgur.com/a/KMuvsRP

in stock form I like to carry the Silver TS10 w 6000K leds.. review album here: https://imgur.com/a/H9Usict

[-] jon_slider@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago

thanks, fun video,

Im going to tell people that copper lights smell like mushrooms.. lol..

[-] jon_slider@lemmy.world 3 points 1 year ago

I’m ok with testing its limits

Im appreciating learning from your experience Thanks for sharing info

I respect that youre taking precautions. I think your idea to use water cooling could work well ;-)

[-] jon_slider@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago

I used it continuously in candle mode @ high with the original silicone diffuser for a video shoot

now that you have learned it gets too hot and has no thermal regulation..

suggest next time you want to use candle mode, that you limit your use to level 6 of the 7 stepped modes.. and check with your hand after a couple of minutes, to confirm if that keeps the light cool enough

[-] jon_slider@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago

well-photographed

thanks..

the secret for me, has turned out to be to take photos during daylight hours (not in the dark).. it seems to help the iPhone camera (auto white balance), to produce useful beam color comparisons, for me.. Plus daylight shows what the host looks like.

the other thing that has turned out really handy as a background is my gray soldering mat.. (better than white paper).

example: https://i.imgur.com/HuON5ib.jpg

[-] jon_slider@lemmy.world 3 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

UV

here is a good video of a D2 w UV: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTk1XAh8EFU

and a good review of a D2: https://tgreviews.com/2023/04/26/emisar-d2/

the reviews have differing opinions on whether to choose the spot optic or the flood optic.. I went with the flood option and am very happy with it.. (it is Not Very Floody, it just makes the beam round instead of square)

[-] jon_slider@lemmy.world 4 points 1 year ago

congratulations looks very nice, thanks for the pics

[-] jon_slider@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

I just checked with avrdude (on Linux), and I had no difficulties with pinging the device, backing up, and updating, while using the instructions over at https://anduril.click/flashing/avrdude.html.

SOLVED!

Thank you very much!

I was able to successfully ping and backup eeprom and hex file from my D2 with the following commands:

ping:

avrdude -p t1634 -c usbasp -n

backup eeprom:

avrdude -p t1634 -c usbasp -U eeprom:r:desktop/D2eeprom-backup.hex:i

backup D2 stock hex:

avrdude -p t1634 -c usbasp -U flash:r:desktop/oldD2-firmware.hex:i

Thanks!

[-] jon_slider@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago

That worked! thanks ;-)

no clue yet what command line to use to save a backup of my D2 hex file.. suggestions welcome

this is the 3rd time Ive tried to reply.. lemmy keeps losing my posts.. hmmm

[-] jon_slider@lemmy.world 3 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago)

thanks for following up ;-)

No, I do not yet know the correct command line syntax

I would welcome any help.. here is the backstory:

I bought Hank’s programmer and am trying to learn how to ping the D2…

I dont have an Android phone, and cannot use avrdude on my iMac. I use pymcuprog and issue commands through Terminal in my iMac, to reflash Anduril on my Wurkkos TS10 successfuly.

when I use the gchart programmers for my TS10, I use this command line, that works very well:

pymcuprog ping -t uart -u /dev/tty.wchusbserial1430 -d attiny1616

Im trying to figure out what command line to use for the Emisar D2? 
I think it uses a 1634 chip? I believe I need this info to edit the command line where it says attiny1616. Is that true, or does the D2 use attiny1616?

when I plug the Hank programmer into my iMac, with the pogo pins connected to the head of my D2, and I run this command in Terminal:

**
ls /dev/{tty,cu}.***

the response is

**
tty.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port**

I believe I need that info to tell pymcuprog to use the Hank programmer..

so I took a couple of guesses and modified the command line to ping the D2 like this:

pymcuprog ping -t uart -u /dev/tty.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port -d attiny1634

but that command line does not work in Terminal (yet), I get this response in Terminal:

Unable to setup stack for device attiny1634
Currently supported devices (in ‘devices’ folder):
atmega1608, atmega1609, atmega3208, atmega3209, atmega328p, atmega4808, atmega4809, atmega808, atmega809, atsamd21e18a, atsamd21g18a, attiny1604, attiny1606, attiny1607, attiny1614, attiny1616, attiny1617, attiny1624, attiny1626, attiny1627, attiny202, attiny204, attiny212, attiny214, attiny3216, attiny3217, attiny3224, attiny3226, attiny3227, attiny402, attiny404, attiny406, attiny412, attiny414, attiny416, attiny417, attiny424, attiny426, attiny427, attiny804, attiny806, attiny807, attiny814, attiny816, attiny817, attiny824, attiny826, attiny827, attiny84a, avr128da28, avr128da32, avr128da48, avr128da64, avr128db28, avr128db32, avr128db48, avr128db64, avr16dd14, avr16dd20, avr16dd28, avr16dd32, avr16ea28, avr16ea32, avr16ea48, avr32da28, avr32da32, avr32da48, avr32db28, avr32db32, avr32db48, avr32dd14, avr32dd20, avr32dd28, avr32dd32, avr32ea28, avr32ea32, avr32ea48, avr64da28, avr64da32, avr64da48, avr64da64, avr64db28, avr64db32, avr64db48, avr64db64, avr64dd14, avr64dd20, avr64dd28, avr64dd32, avr64ea28, avr64ea32, avr64ea48, avr8ea28, avr8ea32, pic16f15244, pic16f15276, pic16f15376, pic16f17146, pic16f1768, pic16f1769, pic16f1779, pic16f18146, pic16f18446, pic16f18456, pic16lf18456, pic18f16q40, pic18f16q41, pic18f47k40, pic18f47k42, pic18f47q10, pic18f47q43, pic18f57q43, pic18f57q84, pic24fj128ga705, pic24fj64gu205, uc3a3256

(apparently my pymcuprog install does not include attiny1634)

Do you have any suggestions what the correct command line would be, to ping my Emisar D2?

Once I get that sorted, I will have the Option to also reflash to newer firmware, but that is not my priority. I just want to backup my existing firmware with my eeprom settings.

I dont really want to update to newer D2 firmware, that uses 3C for channel switching. I can switch channels on my D2 using 3H, and I like it that way.

It means I dont have to relearn a different command for my D2, when I want to switch from smooth to stepped ramping. This keeps 3C consistent with my other Anduril lights.

24
Emisar D2.. WOW! (i.imgur.com)

outstanding little Regulated Anduril Light!

Album w more details: https://imgur.com/a/vXeGC1t

[-] jon_slider@lemmy.world 2 points 1 year ago

This would be the latest version

saved, thank you very much for all your help ;-)

3

Loving the color of this beam.. Just perfect for dark of night.

available for adoption

1
submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 11 months ago) by jon_slider@lemmy.world to c/flashlight@lemmy.world

Both lights are modded to 3000K 219b, w 30 degree Pebbled Tir.

tldnr: Compare and Contrast Summary

The Mini has better regulation, runtime, and less flicker than the Pro. It lacks a constant on indicator button light, but has a more muggle friendly low battery warning.

The Pro has better low modes below 1 lumen, and much better ramping control. It also has a battery voltage check option.

===

the longer version ;-)

Ramping

The Mini has its own version of a ramping UI (plus a toggle to a 3 mode clicky UI). The ramping on the Mini jumps up from the low mode, to about 60 lumens very quickly. It takes some fiddling to dial in a lower output, for example 10 lumens.

I like the Pro ramping speed better, it is much easier to fine tune to an output in the 10 lumen range.

Driver efficiency and regulation

The Mini has regulated output and can Sustain 300 lumens 4x longer than the Pro (53 minutes vs 13 minutes):

runtime charts courtesy of zeroair

The Mini has much lower flicker index. (flicker index is a combination of modulation depth and frequency).

The Pro has full PWM, iow 100% modulation, where the LED is turning all the way off and back on, albeit at very high frequency that is too fast to see.

Button light, low battery behavior

The Mini has a button light that only comes on for about 5 seconds when the light is first turned on. It is an automatic battery level indicator. When the battery is charged, the button light shines bright Green for 5 seconds when first turned on. With a CR123 battery (to simulate a discharged LiIon), the button light fast blinks bright Red, non stop, while the light is On. This is a very muggle friendly battery indicator.

The Pro has a button light that by default is on in dim Green all the time. I like this locator light feature. It helps me find the light in the dark, for example when I put it on my nightstand. The button light also helps me find the switch button when using the light. The Pro with a CR123 shows dim Green rapid flashes, only while the light is off.

Output Range

The lowest level on the Mini is 0.8 lumens, momentary maximum is 415 lumens, with a 3000K 219b.

The lowest level on the Pro is .02 lumens (w visible PWM when waving the light), momentary maximum is 480 lumens, also with 3000K 219b.

Flicker Index

The Mini:

Flicker Index of 0.2704 when at about 6 lumens output.

Flicker Index of 0.0042 when at about 30 lumens output.

(Flicker below 0.0500 is considered harmless.)

The Pro:

Flicker Index of 0.7951 at about 6 lumens output.

Flicker Index of 0.5339 at about 30 lumens output.

(The Pro scores poorly due to PWM, although it is very fast)

Opple 3 flicker measurements

https://i.imgur.com/M6p3q0h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YzKsaVt.jpg

view more: next ›

jon_slider

joined 1 year ago