lemmyman

joined 2 years ago
[–] lemmyman@lemmy.world 2 points 1 day ago

Because as long as there is strain on the connector, all of them will eventually fail.

This is key.

OP needs to secure the cable on each side of the connection, and leave a little slack for the connector.

[–] lemmyman@lemmy.world 7 points 1 day ago

This changes everything

[–] lemmyman@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago

I guess OP has reached galaxy brain then?

[–] lemmyman@lemmy.world 19 points 1 week ago (2 children)

Officially the second far side comic I've ever understood

[–] lemmyman@lemmy.world 7 points 1 week ago

This time of year they're resetting their gravity inverter and things get a little wonky

[–] lemmyman@lemmy.world 15 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

[Citation needed]

[–] lemmyman@lemmy.world 5 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago)

Hypothesis testing is not of the form "what causes this?" What you're suggesting seems to be along those lines.

Instead it's more "can we say with high confidence that this specific factor causes this?"

That doesn't mean you can't test other factors! You can test them all with enough time and resources.

There are multi-factor statistical tools like ANOVA. But they still depend on you identifying what the factors might be.

But if you have factors A, B, C, and D in your analysis, and it's actually the totally unknown factor E.... you might find a lot of unexplained variance in your statistics, or you might mislead yourself into thinking it's ABCD and never discover what E actually was.

But at the end of the day that's just a fancier form of "does this specific thing cause this effect."

And the essence of science is discovering Factor E and testing it, with new hypotheses.

[–] lemmyman@lemmy.world 14 points 2 weeks ago (2 children)

Freedom units conversion bot: 787 million imperial dollars is actually 20 biillion metric dollars.

[–] lemmyman@lemmy.world 3 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago)

Boil water advisories are often immediate - like a check valve has failed unexpectedly and there is, this very instant, a risk if sewage in your tap water.

Hard to mobilize a city-wide door-to-door campaign with such urgency.

As a secondary option, sure. But it's not always like a planned-for-months water main replacement.

The four channels OP listed do seem inadequate though.

[–] lemmyman@lemmy.world 5 points 3 weeks ago (3 children)

Try being married for 15 years

20
Wall oven selection (lemmy.world)
submitted 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago) by lemmyman@lemmy.world to c/homeimprovement@lemmy.world
 

My wall oven went kaput - it had a good run (I think it's original with the house, from 1960. Or at least from the 80s. It has a mechanical timer!). But the heating element melted itself and I'm not really up for trying to find a replacement for that.

So I'm in the market for a new wall oven and seeking input. Key specs:

  • It's a 24" single wall oven. Cutout is 22.5" wide, 28.5" high, and 25" deep.
  • Electric power, 240V/30A circuit
  • I only care about baking and broiling. Steam, air fry, wifi, rotisserie are all zero-to-negative for me.
  • I would prefer physical dials and buttons but that seems uncommon these days
  • I wouldn't want to go much more expensive than the options I've found (see below).

I've found two that seem like a native fit:

  • GE JRS06SKSS
    • The installation manual shows that this needs a cabinet cutout below the unit, which I don't want to do because I have existing drawers there
  • Frigidaire GCWS2438AF
    • This seems to fit my cutout without modification, so I'll probably buy this unless I find something better

Most other 24" models are designed for a shorter ~23" cutout, which is unfortunate because there are some substantially cheaper options (like $500 vs. $1700). For example the Empava EMPV-24WOB14, and some others from Magic Chef, Cosmo, and various other brands I've never heard of. It's maybe possible that I could build a nook above or below the oven, or a trim piece covering the opening. But I'd kind of just rather not.

Any thoughts on my best options here?

Edit to add: I opted to look harder for a replacement heating element, and after a long slog through a lot of appliance parts websites that don't offer many specs for their parts, I finally found a couple options that look like they will work at www.therm-coil.com, where it seems that every heating element they offer is listed with cross-references, dimensions, and terminal style. Like, all the stuff that should be listed on all the other sites but never is.

 

I left a spool of eSun PLA+ beige in my Prusa MK4 with Prusa enclosure, which has sat idle since my last print about 6 weeks ago. The enclosure has a PTFE filament feed tube that runs the filament from the spool to the extruder.

Today I went to change the filament, and it broke apart in several pieces, right at the ends of the ptfe filament feed tube. The filament on the spool itself - within an inch of where it simply separated from the broken bits - I can fold over 180° tight without breaking it. Even the several ~1" lengths of broken bits are similarly ductile.

Ambient humidity is something like 15% (per my filament dryer) to 30% (per my dehumidifier, which is idle because it's winter).

Any idea why this happened? I'm curious about maybe interactions with the PETG parts that the broken pieces were close to (that's the only thing I can come up with, anyway).

 

Anyone have a recommendation for a benchtop current sense amplifier?

Sure, there are current sense breakout boards and whatnot. But what I'd like is a convenient device that I can use to instrument a circuit and then monitor its current with my oscilloscope or logic analyzer (Saleae with analog input) along with other signals in the circuit.

Ideal features might be:

  • Banana jack inputs and outputs
  • Selectable range / sensitivity / sense resistor
  • Isolated measurement, so I can measure high-side or low-side currents without worrying too much about the common connection on my scope
  • Selectable or automatic power source selection, between circuit-powered and externally-powered

I haven't seen anything like this in a few targeted searches, and just wondering if someone has any suggestions I might have missed.

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