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My family uses credit cards for all purchases and we pay them off in full each month. Although sometimes we'll use a 0% APR promotion for bigger purchases.

Which cards do you use for maximizing your rewards?

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My family needs a second car. I'm thinking about a used Chevy Bolt or Nissan Leaf so I think the cost will be about $20,000.

What's a good source for financing? I was thinking about getting a loan from my bank, Chase. But I see there are also lenders that specialize in car loans, and there might be dealership options? My credit score is over 700.

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Our (spouse and I) are in a few of these funds. Is there a retirement calculator that figures out projections of these always-adjusting funds?

The Fidelity "Monte Carlo" simulation seems to not adjust with them even though these funds do.

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Intro

Some people use credit cards a ton, and others avoid it like the plague. There's a ton of conflicting advice in personal finance circles, from people like Dave Ramsey who advise to never use credit cards, others like The Money Guy recommends using credit cards responsibly, and then there's the churning community who tend to use credit cards a ton.

This post will go over how credit cards work, commmon benefits, and will conclude with general advice on what "use credit cards responsibly" means.

Statement cycles, grace period, and interest

Bank accounts usually operate on a monchly schedule, where you'll earn interest on the average balance throughout the month. Credit cards operate on a statement cycle.

Most credit cards use a month-long statement cycle, so your statements will close on about the same day each month, whereas some use a fixed number of days in the statement, so your statement cycle can "drift" month to month since months aren't the same length. The larger issuers tend to use a month duration, so your statement will usually close on the same day each month. Credit card payments are usually due a fixed number of days after the statement closes.

A statement cycle contains all of the transactions that happened during that time. The sum of all of these transactions is your statement balance, and after your statement cycle closes, your total balance (the number reported on the website) will include any transactions you made after the statement cycle closes.

Grace period

The time from the purchase to the due date after the next statement close is called the "grace period," which is the period where interest does not accrue. Here's a simple example:

  • statement opens on the 10th and closes on the 9th of the following month
  • payment is due 16 days after the statement close, so the 25th of the following month

Anything you buy from the 10th to 9th of the next month will be part of the same statement, and those purchases will not accrue any interest until after the payment due date, the 25th of the next month. So if you buy something on the 10th, you'll have 45 days to pay that back before that purchase starts accruing interest.

Minimum payment

Credit card companies require making at least the minimum payment every month in order to be on time. Usually this is the larger of a fixed amount (e.g. $50) and a percentage of the amount owed on the card (e.g. 1% + interest). If you make at least the minimum payment each month, your card will report to the credit bureaus that you paid your bill on time, which will help your credit score.

However, if you pay less than your statement balance, the remainder will start to accrue interest daily, and that interest will be added to the total for the next month's minimum payment.

Interest calculation

Let's say you have a credit card with these figures:

  • $50 minimum payment, or 1% of total balance + interest accrued, whichever is greater
  • 20% interest rate
  • $10k balance

Let's say you make the minimum payment. In this case, 1% of $10k is $100, so your minimum payment would be $100. Since no interest has accrued yet, all $100 of that payment would go toward the balance, and you'd start accruing interest immediately. The first day after your payment due date, you would accrue:

$9,900 * (20% / 365) = $5.42

The next day we add that interest to calculate the next day's interest, which is:

$9,905.42 * (20% / 365) = $5.43

And so on. If there are 30 days in the month, that's going to be $165.70 in interest added on to your balance, which is greater than your initial 1% minimum payment. Your next month's minimum payment will be even higher because you'll be required to pay the interest plus that 1% toward the debt, so the new payment will be ~$265.70.

Different credit cards have different rules for the minimum payment, but in most areas, credit card companies are required to have the minimum be high enough that if you stop making any more purchases, you'll eventually pay off the debt by making that minimum payment.

Avoiding interest

As long as you pay your complete statement balance by the due date every month, you will never pay any interest.

Most credit card companies offer autopay that lets you choose between the minimum payment, your statement balance, and your total balance. The total balance includes transactions in the next statement cycle, and you do not need to pay those until the next statement closes. Setting autopay to pay the statement balance is sufficient to avoid paying interest indefinitely, provided you always have enough money in the account used for autopay.

Common benefits/card features

Foreign transaction fees

Both debit and credit cards charge a fee for making purchases outside of your economic zone. In the US, that means any other country, whereas in Europe, purchases within the EU probably don't incur a foreign transaction fee.

Most travel cards have no foreign transaction fee, whereas most no-annual fee cards do charge that foreign transaction fee.

Just note that this depends on where the payment was processed, not where the purchaser is, so purchasing from some websites can incur a foreign transaction fee (i.e. I get charged one for purchases at Fanatical.com, despite prices being listed in USD).

These fees are usually a separate line item in your statement, so you can check if a fee was charged.

Extended warranty

Many cards will offer to extend the manufacturer's warranty if you make the purchase with the credit card. For example, the Costco Visa credit card extends any warranty by 1 year, so if the device within a year after the manufacturer's warranty expires, you can submit a claim and the credit card company will reimburse you for the cost of the purchase according to their terms.

Rental insurance

If you book a rental car with the credit card, the credit card can serve as auto insurance, meaning you can avoid getting the insurance through the rental company. This benefit seems to be disappearing, and the terms can be a bit nuanced, so definitely read up on the details if you are considering relying on your credit card's rental insurance.

Price protection

If the price of a product drops within some window of time after purchase, your credit card company may reimburse you the difference. They usually require you to go through the merchant first if the merchant also offers similar protection.

Fraud protection

All credit card companies offer robust fraud protection where you are not liable for any unauthorized purchases. Some fraud department can be more difficult to work with than others, but in general, credit card fraud departments resolve cases faster than checking/savings accounts.

Impact on credit score

This certainly can vary by country and perhaps credit bureau, but in general, only the following impact your credit score:

  • on-time, late, and missed payments
  • age of accounts
  • number of accounts (more is better)
  • percentage of credit limit used

Whether you pay interest does not impact your credit score in any way.

Getting a new credit card will hurt in two ways:

  • adds an inquiry to your credit; hit is small until you have multiple (i.e. >2 and you'll get bigger hits)
  • adds a new, young account, which reduces the average age of your accounts

Those impacts usually go away in 6-24 months, depending on the rest of your credit profile.

General advice

Assuming you're responsible, in rough order of importance:

  • never spend more than you have available in your bank account (i.e. treat it like a debit card)
  • pay statement balance on time every month
  • keep your oldest card open
  • have at least two credit cards
  • increase credit limit until your regular spending is a small percent of total limit

I shoot for keeping my credit utilization under 30% for any individual card, and under 10% across all cards. This seems to

If you have a history of being irresponsible with credit, or you think you may misuse it, it's not worth getting a credit card. You can instead use a secured card, or perhaps a charge card, since both will prevent your from getting into trouble with carrying a balance, while still reporting to the credit bureaus.

Conclusion

Credit cards can be an incredibly useful tool, provided you're responsible with them. Read up on the benefits for cards you have, and consider choosing new cards based on benefits you want and need.

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A buddy of mine told me about Wealthfront recently and they’re 5% money market account rates.

Growing up in a world where savings accounts and even CDs never approached more than 2%, the rates on this new thing blew me away.

Free money is great, and I’d love to take advantage of these rates, but the only cash I have currently is the emergency fund I’m trying to build.

Anyone have thoughts on if putting an efund in this kind of service is a bad idea? Not sure if it’ll be liquid enough if a major expense comes up.

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Hello everyone,

As you all know, /r/PersonalFinance is 99% of people asking questions on how to deal with a specific personal financial issue.

We currently don't have this kind of people here for the moment. I saw someone the other day in !relationship_advice@lemmy.world on a relationship/finance issue that could have posted here, but in the end I guess they got their advise there.

We are getting more and more traction (42th most active community this week on this listing that excludes LW for technical reasons: https://lemmyverse.net/communities?order=active).

Feel free to ask advice if you need any, the community seems more than happy to help.

In the meantime, I'm going to post still another article about GenZ and trading.

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Legislation known as the Credit Card Competition Act, first introduced in Congress in 2022, is described by its sponsors as encouraging “competition in electronic credit transactions.” But if lawmakers end up passing the measure, opponents say it could also torpedo the rich rewards and perks that cardholders have enjoyed for years.

“Will consumers lose? Probably,” wrote Brian Riley, director of the credit advisory service at Mercator Advisory Group, in an August 2022 post to the Mercator blog. “Their reward programs will dry up, just as they did with debit cards.”

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Domestic airfare fell 2% to an average of $267 per ticket in August. The plateau will last through mid-September, but then begin to rise as the holiday season approaches, peaking in late November or early December.

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Hello! I am looking for some suggestions on supplemental income while I am job hunting. Unfortunately I had to leave my career unexpectedly due to incessant racism and discrimination.

I have looked into DoorDash (doesn’t seem all that worth it when you start doing the numbers), Fiverr, and I’m currently looking into maybe selling on Etsy.

My main concern is how competitive the current job market is and how long job searches are taking. I would like to at least have a trickle of something coming in.

Thank you for any suggestions in advance!

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Baby boomers anticipate that 47% of pre-retirement earnings will be replaced by Social Security, according to results of an annual survey from the Nationwide Retirement Institute. But the reality for someone making what the Social Security Administration considers the average wage in recent years, about $60,000, is more like 37%, according to the Committee for a Responsible Federal Budget. And the percentage drops as household income rises.

Alternate: https://archive.ph/Hx1PM

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About 36% of U.S. adults say they have less than $1,000 in their savings accounts.

For analysis of the political views of that media: https://ground.news/article/over-half-of-americans-say-theyre-not-even-close-to-financial-freedom

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cross-posted from: https://lemmy.crimedad.work/post/12162

Why? Because apparently they need some more incentive to keep units occupied. Also, even though a property might be vacant, there's still imputed rental income there. Its owner is just receiving it in the form of enjoying the unit for himself instead of receiving an actual rent check from a tenant. That imputed rent ought to be taxed like any other income.

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Food fillers? (discuss.tchncs.de)

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.today/post/568354

I like adding things to my icecream, usually peanut butter and frozen fruit. Got to thinking that if I added oats I could actually increase the volume without impacting the flavour all that much (I like oats). I could probably use floured starches or something like that.

Are there other things you "fill"? I think juice + water is the most familiar example. What about something like adding 20% dehydrated milk to fresh milk? Substituting some butter for oil?

Sometimes I find when I'm making my own stuff it ends up being more expensive than buying the packaged variety from the store, but maybe fillers are a way to balance that out.

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More than 1 in 4 car shoppers in Texas and Wyoming have committed to paying more than $1,000 a month, and experts say it is due to the high volume of large truck purchases in those states, according to a report by auto site Edmunds.

More than 1 in 5 shoppers in seven other states — Colorado, Kansas, Louisiana, Montana, Nebraska, North Dakota and Utah — are also forking over more than $1,000 for their vehicles each month.

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Following the credit card thread, I've learned that some people use credit card points and miles to pay for hotels, that seems pretty interesting.

Children toys being second hands comes to mind too.

What are your ideas?

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cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/3560407

Considering how crazy expensive accommodations have become the last couple of years, concentrated in the hands of greedy corporations, landlords and how little politicians seem to care about this problem, do you think we will ever experience a real estate market crash that would bring those exorbitant prices back to Earth?

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submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by Blaze@discuss.tchncs.de to c/personalfinance@lemmy.ml

I know this might just reflect financial culture differences across countries, but let's give it a try

Edit: as a clarification, I meant credit card compared to debit, not to cash

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submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by Blaze@discuss.tchncs.de to c/personalfinance@lemmy.ml

Hello everyone,

As you may have noticed, our current single mod has been inactive for a while, and the description still mentions a wiki we currently don't have.

Would anyone be interested into moderating this community? I'm currently quite busy with a few others so I would rather not volunteer for this one.

Due to the low level of posts, the reports are probably limited, so the task should not take more than a few minutes per week.

Once we'll identify someone, we can use the !community_requests@lemmy.ml to request it

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cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ca/post/3527160

Even though prices have shot up for things like almond, soy, and oat milk, the size of refrigerated versions have always been 1.89L.

But I noticed some strangeness on the Walmart (Canada) website while building my grocery list where one brand, that is priced less than another brand, had a higher cost per 100ml.

As I looked into it, I noticed that several varieties have gone from 1.89L to 1.75L.

I'm getting real sick and tired of this.

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submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by Blaze@discuss.tchncs.de to c/personalfinance@lemmy.ml

A Vanguard video (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1nprZjV_6FM) refers to 4 budgeting methods

  1. the envelope method
  2. the pay yourself first method
  3. 50/30/20 method
  4. zero based budget method

Which one is your favourite?

Edit: non-text version with a 5th method: https://www.lendingtree.com/student/simple-budget/

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submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by sugar_in_your_tea@sh.itjust.works to c/personalfinance@lemmy.ml

Intro

When it comes to paying off debt, the most important thing is to get your budget in order to free up cash to actually make the payments. So if you're not there yet, stop here and work on getting your budget in order.

In this post, I'll go through the two major debt repayment strategies with their associated pros and cons, and at the end I'll discuss one potentially surprising case where it's not so cut and dry which is better. In general, these strategies attempt to optimize how quickly you pay off your debts.

How does interest work

In general, your interest rate is a yearly rate, but interest usually accrues monthly (or daily for credit cards; more on that later). So let's say your interest rate is 12%, this means your monthly rate is ~1%, so every month you'd pay 1% of whatever money you owe in interest (so $10 for every $1000). It's a little more complicated than that (i.e. APR vs APY), but that's close enough for our purposes.

For this post, I'm going to be using the following for illustration purposes:

  • credit card A: $1000 @ 24%
  • credit card B: $500 @ 12%
  • debt repayment of $200/month
  • minimum repayment: 1% or $50, whichever is greater

So in the first month, here's how much interest we'll be paying:

  • credit card A: $1000 * (24%/12) = $20
  • credit card B: $500 * (12%/12) = $5

Since we have a minimum payment of $50 for each card, the rest will go toward reducing the debt. So after the first month, if we only make minimum payments, the debts will be:

  • credit card A: $1000 - $30 = $970
  • credit card B: $500 - 45 = $455

For the examples below, I'll be making extra payments with the payment, after interest accrues. I'll also assume interest accrues as of the balance at the end of the month, not daily.

Grace period

The most common type of higher interest debt is credit card debt, and usually these rates (in my area) are between 10-30%, usually >20%. Credit cards are a bit special in that they usually (but not always!) have a grace period where you won't pay any interest if you always pay your balance on time, but as soon as you fail to pay your statement balance even once, you start accruing daily interest on all balances (including new purchases) until the entire debt is repaid. So credit card interest is especially insidious because whether you pay interest can change each billing cycle.

This grace period can be violated in a number of ways, and each card may be a little different there. In general, cash advances start accruing daily interest immediately, balance transfers have a separate rate from normal purchases, and payments usually go toward the highest interest portion first (so usually toward new purchase).

The grace period will be relevant later, but I'll be ignoring it for now.

Avalanche Method

In short: highest interest first.

Assuming your debt repayment stays constant, this is the mathematically optimal repayment strategy and will save you the most interest.

One way of conceptualizing this is to find the average interest rate. We do this by adding up all the debts, divide each debt by the total debt, multiply that by the interest rate, and then sum that. That's a little complicated in text, so here's a walk through of how that works:

  1. $1000 + $500 = $1500 - $1500 total debt
  2. for debt A: $1000 / 1500 * 24% = 16%
  3. for debt B: $500 / 1500 * 12% = 4%
  4. average debt: 16% + 0.04 = 20%

If you don't trust my math, here's an online calculator.

So on average, we're paying 20% interest on our debts. If I paid down half of debt A, I'd instead be paying 18% average interest. If I paid down all of debt B, I'd be paying 24% average interest.

Let's walk through our example, every extra penny goes toward the highest interest debt.

  1. interest paid: $1000*(24%/12) + 500*(12%/12) = $25; card A balance: $1000*(1 + 24%/12) - $150 = $870; card B balance = $500*(1 + 12%/12) - 50 = $455
  2. interest paid: $21.95, card A balance: $737.40; card B balance: $410.31
  3. interest paid: $18.85, card A balance: $602.15, card B balance: $365.10

Total payoff time: 7 months
Total interest: $110.70

Snowball Method

In short: lowest balance first.

The goal here is to eliminate as many debts/minimum payments as possible to reduce the number of debt payments. This can be a huge psychological boost which can encourage people to cut more from the budget to accelerate debt repayment.

Let's walk through our example:

  1. interest paid: $25, card A balance: $970.00, card B balance: $355.00
  2. interest paid: $22.95, card A balance: $939.40, card B balance: $208.55
  3. interest paid: $20.87, card A balance: $868.82, card B balance: $60.64qq`

Total payoff time: 7 months
Total interest: $113.85

Spreadsheet

Here is a spreadsheet I've made that details the simple case above, as well as a more complicated case.

Both cases are intended for illustrative purposes only, I don't recommend using this sheet for anything more than a high-level understanding of snowball vs avalanche debt repayment strategies.

Corner case - unexpected expense

The second tab in that spreadsheet goes through a corner case where snowball could actually be more advantageous. Here are the assumptions:

  • one high interest, high balance card
  • multiple lower interest, low balance cards
  • unexpected expense higher than cash flow can handle happens 3 months after debt repayment starts
  • cards have a grace period on new purchases

In this scenario, snowball is actually superior mathematically for a few months after that unexpected expense happens, and then falls behind over the longer term.

The takeaway here is that if you have less predictable expenses, you may be better off with the debt snowball method and/or having a larger emergency fund. The general advice when doing debt repayment is to not make additional purchases on existing credit cards so as to not add to the problem, but life happens.

Conclusion

If you'll look at both of my examples, the total interest paid isn't that different. If you want to play with the numbers yourself with a better designed tool, check out unbury.me and enter all of your debts, interest rates, and minimum payments. I ran my above example through that website, and the total interest paid is <$100 different between the two methods, and both would be finished around the same time.

In general, debt avalanche is usually the optimal strategy, but use what works for you. For me, debt avalanche is the way to go because I hate leaving money on the table more than I like seeing monthly payments disappear, but the opposite is also completely sensible. That said, the more debt you have, the higher the difference between avalanche and snowball, so run the numbers before deciding.

If you'd like more posts like this, please let me know. I'd like to get more active in this community, but I don't know how technical people here would like me to get.

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submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by deconstruct@lemmy.world to c/personalfinance@lemmy.ml

Americans’ credit card balances rose briskly in the second quarter, hitting a sobering milestone of more than $1 trillion, the Federal Reserve Bank of New York reported this month. Credit cards are the most prevalent type of household debt, New York Fed researchers wrote in a blog post, and saw the biggest increase of all debt types. More than two-thirds of Americans had a credit card in the second quarter, up from 59 percent roughly a decade earlier, the researchers found. And, they noted, card balances were more than 16 percent higher in the second three months of this year compared with a year earlier.

Alternate: https://archive.ph/5bdz1 (NYT)

Alternate: https://www.forbes.com/advisor/credit-cards/credit-card-debt-hits-new-high/

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submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by Blaze@discuss.tchncs.de to c/personalfinance@lemmy.ml

Hello everyone,

One of the most common budgeting advice is to build an emergency funds, that should cover 3 to 6 months of regular expenses, and to only use that money in the case you lose your main source of income.

Another name for that kind of savings is "f*** you money", as it largely reduces the leverage your employer has over you. Have you ever experienced that?

It occurred to me in one of my previous jobs. It was shortly after covid, a period of time when I had been working from home, making as much as usual, but without all the usual expenses (eating out, travelling, having drinks, etc.).

It came out that just after covid, while we had all been working perfectly fine (there was even a productivity peak in all the metrics), the top management decided that it was time to go back to the office. Nobody really understood why among the employees, especially as everyone had been working so well.

It was the 3rd or 4th of January, I had just spent Christmas and NYE with my family and friends back in my hometown. Then I had a meeting with my director, and at the end of the meeting, he scolded me that I was not in the office, but working from home.

Earlier in my career, I would have probably said that I was sorry, and that I would be in the office the next day. But at this moment, I knew that I had enough savings to cover for several years of my regular spending. I didn't say anything, but in my mind, it was crystal clear that I wouldn't be part of this company much longer.

A few days, during my evaluation with my director, I told him that I was quitting. He was shocked, he could not understand. Was it about the money? The responsibilities? I didn't even try to explain, because I know that the policy was pushed by the CEO, and he is known to be incredibly stubborn. In the end, I just told him that I wanted a change of scenery. I didn't even had another job signed yet (I wanted to take a break from work for a few weeks). He probably thought that I needed my job so much that I would put up with this non-sense.

It felt liberating, and it would definitely not be possible without that emergency funds. I didn't really even had to touch it, but just knowing that it was there, ready to be used if needed, made such a big difference.

What is your "f*** you money" story?

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Personal Finance

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Note: This community is not region centric, so if you are posting anything specific to a certain region, kindly specify that in the title (something like [USA], [EU], [AUS] etc.)

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