103
Hey!
Currently doing drywall myself and I am using 6x6 cm squared timber around my outside walls.
The problem is they aren't as stable as the other walls inside the house because of the 6x6 cm squared timbers that are about 30cm distance from each other.
I will screw my plasterboards on the squared timber and only one plasterboard, not two.
I have two pictures of what my construction looks like from far and one from close.
Maybe someone can give me advice before I install the plasterboard onto it.
The only problem I currently see is finding the subconstruction once I put the plasterboards back on. But other than that, if I find them can I install the cabinets safely?
I would not. 6cm is about 2 1/2 inches and I would not rely on a wall framed any less thick than 4-by (3.5 inches). Thinner means more flexion which will lead to problems of your plaster cracking and cabinet flushness issues. In terms of strength, it's probably okay, assuming you have fastened that framing solidly.
The trick to finding your studs is to pre-mark your plaster board and keep transferring those marks outward up to the point of hanging your cabinets.
Hi thanks!
Can I just install more 6x6 cm frames and make it more stable in the area I want to hang something or would that not help?
In general, I can hang plasterboard on 6x6 though right?
No. Beam deflection goes as the inverse 4th power of beam thickness in the direction of bending. Adding more material lateral to the direction of bending does not help.
Yes, you can certainly hang plasterboard on that.
My english isn't that good I think I can't follow.
The beam in that room is holding a top floor and roof and should hold way more. The wall that the beam is sitting on is about 35 cm thick.
Der Poster ueber dir sprach allgemein uber dir Berechnung der Durchbiegung von Balken, hier die 60x60mm Kanthoelzer.
Er meint damit also, dass es nichts bringt, weitere Lattungen anzubringen?
Mein Plan ist aktuell:
Küchenanbieter anschreiben und Monteur der Küche ob die Lattungen so in Ordnung sind. Die angebrachte Lattung markieren, sodass der Monteur später dann die Hängeschränke an den Rigips & Lattung schrauben kann und nicht ins "leere" trifft.