BigDanishGuy

joined 2 years ago
[–] BigDanishGuy@sh.itjust.works 10 points 3 hours ago

You're NOT helping

[–] BigDanishGuy@sh.itjust.works 59 points 5 hours ago* (last edited 3 hours ago)

There's an easy solution: keep buying it, break the seal to get to the message, then return it. Have your friends do the same, at the same store. Pretty soon that product will be gone and you can move on to the next store.

If the store starts to bitch about it, you can claim that you wanted to see if the statement had been removed.

[–] BigDanishGuy@sh.itjust.works 5 points 2 days ago (1 children)

Var det ikke et band?

Nah, we were mostly sitting while searching for obscene "weird al" songs

[–] BigDanishGuy@sh.itjust.works 4 points 1 week ago (1 children)

It's definitely 2000-vintage, but where are you getting Pentium III? It clearly says celeron on the sticker. The Pentium III's with a comparable clockspeed had a 50% higher FSB and twice the L2 cache.

[–] BigDanishGuy@sh.itjust.works 9 points 1 week ago (3 children)

What does equal population mean and what does the different widths indicate?

Are the widths just the original area? Because why then introduce the "equal population" information?

I'm sorry if I'm being a bit thick, but I really don't get it.

Nogen her der har en VW ID et-eller-andet? Jeg prøvekørte en id3, og AC var gemt væk i undermenuer. Da jeg forsøgte at sætte temperaturen, blev jeg mødt af en besked om at jeg trykkede for hurtigt under kørsel, og nu skulle vente 10s for at kunne trykke igen... Inden jeg kørte i den, ville jeg super gerne have haft den bil, på papiret stod der +200hk, baghjulstræk og en pris havde råd til. Men nu kører jeg Renault i stedet.

Jeg håber vi får en periode, hvor alting er tilbage i rigtige knapper, inden vi går over til autonome køretøjer.

Buh-frigging-huh! Jeg gætter på at en stor andel af de prostesterende borgere købte deres huse mens fabrikken stadig var aktiv, så at komme nu med protester er lidt for søgt.

Den fabrik skal ligge et eller andet sted, og alle andre steder skal man til at bygge først, for at have bygninger i samme standard. Stik piben ind og klap hælene sammen venner.

There was a time when all you needed to call in a prescription in Denmark, was the doctors authorization number... Which was publicly available. Sure if you called in a prescription at a pharmacy across the country or sounded suspicious, the pharmacy would make a call back, but other than that all you had to do was pick a doctor in an area with lots of other doctors and near a large pharmacy, and you'd get whatever you liked.

It must have been so for +10 years before a journalist and a doctor blew it up, by having the journalist phone in prescriptions for morphine, barbiturates, and other recreationally applicable substances. I don't know if a doctor can still phone in prescriptions, but the immediate stop gap was to only accept prescriptions accompanied by the doctor's personal, and crucially private, SSN.

[–] BigDanishGuy@sh.itjust.works 4 points 1 week ago (2 children)

Let's see when a latin American person wins, whether Trump refuses to shake hands

[–] BigDanishGuy@sh.itjust.works 4 points 1 week ago (1 children)

What a mighty warrior, he'd be dead with the first chemical strike.

[–] BigDanishGuy@sh.itjust.works -5 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (4 children)

As was mentioned last time this was posted, it's a matter of being able to use gas masks properly. If the masks don't form a seal with the skin the wearer is dead.

When was the last time the US fought an enemy with a credible chemical stockpile? That's why it hasn't been important the last 30years. But Russia has shown to still possess chemical weapons and the will to use them. North Korea is known to have CW in their arsenal, and it would be naïve to assume that the PRC doesn't.

At the moment allies for WW3 are still blurry, but I guess it's better safe than sorry. So it's not a rule intentionally targeting black people, it's protecting all soldiers. The rest of NATO should probably enforce the same rule.

24
Some media not showing (sh.itjust.works)
submitted 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) by BigDanishGuy@sh.itjust.works to c/boostforlemmy@lemmy.world
 

Seeing as I don't see others mention this, I'm gonna try and see if I'm alone in this.

Some pictures and videos won't show for me. It's not that the files have been removed, because I can download the files, but boost won't show them. Sometimes the pictures will load fine, if I choose the original resolution.

I figured that it was because I had an elderly phone, a OnePlus running Android 13, but now that I'm on Motorola running Android 15 I guess it has other reasons.

Anybody else have this issue?

Here's an example of a video that won't load it's NSFW https://lemmynsfw.com/post/27180424 come to think of it, I guess most of the stuff that fails is NSFW

6
Suggestions for birds? (sh.itjust.works)
submitted 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) by BigDanishGuy@sh.itjust.works to c/homestead@lemmy.ca
 

I'm looking for suggestions on fowls.

We have a small flock of chickens, about 10, but we have another run with the capacity for about 20 more birds. We also have a small flock of ducks, a single muscowy lady and some indian runners. The ducks are our counter slug squad, but also provide us with some prime eggs as well.

Anyway, we're considering adding some quail as a pesticide in our ant infested greenhouse, and a few geese as lawnmowers for a very soggy part of the garden.

Besides the utility of the birds, we do expect to eat their eggs and come autumn fill up the freezer.

I think we've diversified quite a bit, but what do you think? Something that we should consider keeping as well?

Edit: removed the artifacts of my initial pre-posting edits

 

I have a suggestion for a rule amendment. It goes like this:

When posting pictures of your targets, post as much info about your setup as reasonably possible, ie distance, target diameter, bow type etc. If you're looking for advice, be as specific about your gear as possible.

Reason for my suggestion is that a lot of the time posters will leave out this info, but still be looking for advice, or to show off I guess, when posting a picture of their target. I mean a spread of 50cm at 18m with a compound bow isn't that impressive - not that there's any reason to discourage the archer. But was that a 15cm spread instead, at 70m, with a bare bow, then that's pretty darn impressive.

I like to give constructive feedback, but I know next to nothing about anything but recurve target archery.

Back on December 24th, I wrote the mod of this community, !innkeeper@lemmy.world, suggesting this rule ammendment. It's been two and a half week and I haven't heard back. I also noticed when writing the mod, that the account haven't posted or commented anywhere in a year. So now I'm trying the community instead. I have no idea what we need to do to actually implement the rule, so I'd thought I'd give democracy a shot in the meantime.

 

Question: If you have tried a dodgy dual input hotend, what were your experiences?

Background: As with anyone else who have a single extruder, I've been contemplating upgrading to something with a bit more flexibility. But the idea of getting a whole new printer doesn't appeal as much to my wallet, as it does to my mind :-)

Scouring aliexpress for weird filaments with the mrs - you know, normal Saturday-evening-and-the-kids-are-sleeping couple activities - we fell upon a dual input hotend for creality cr10. It looks an awful lot like the hotend we have, and it comes with either 24v or 12v heater. It's only about 15€ so I might just give it a try, but it's pretty stupid when I don't even have a plan for an extra extruder as well. And I don't know how I would go about wiring that part up on my cr6 at the moment.

43
submitted 9 months ago* (last edited 9 months ago) by BigDanishGuy@sh.itjust.works to c/homestead@lemmy.ca
 

In search of a dedicated small engine community I come here.

I have an older husqvarna frontrider with a hydrostatic transmission. While checking the transmission oil I noticed that the fan had broken of most of the blades.

Looking at the transmission cover I can see that it has been grazed by the blades, suggesting that the fan has been pulled sideways.

The oil check was part of a small service, that I was doing since I had to replace both belts going to the cutting deck as well as the belt in the deck. Those belts died when the belt tensioner, in middle of the mower, came loose and dangled beneath the mower.

My questions are these:

  1. WTF?
  2. If the belts have pulled that much in the engine driveshaft, as to do this, what else would you look for before starting the mower again?
  3. Given that it's about 10°C outside, would you run the mower without a fully functioning fan?
  4. Have I missed something? Any wisdom you wish to impart?
 

I'm looking for a source of product status ect. Specifically AAE products at the moment, but preferably more universal than that. Does anyone know of a blog or other source, that congregates this info?

Background (rant) for asking:

At present I'm looking for vanes for my target recurve kid. Got told by the gurus at the range/club, that flex fletch ffp 187 was a good choice, so I ordered ffp 187 no-prep. Just to get an email back from the local shop, that ffp 187 no-prep was discontinued. And they suggested AAE wav, gas pro naca 200 performance (or spin wings, but the coaches don't want us to go for spin wings at the present)

OK, fine, I can see that JVD (my local shop's wholesaler) only carries one color of ffp 187 no-prep now. But then another kid at the club was shooting AAE hybrid shield 185, and all of a sudden those are being discontinued as well. So I've tried ordering AAE wav ... to the be told by the same gurus what wav was probably also discontinued. But I can't find any announcements, just dwindling stock at the wholesaler level.

I don't know much about archery, but I know that I don't want to fletch a dozen shafts, just to then learn that once the clicker-side vanes are used up, then we're SOL.

 

As the title states really. I need to refer to this diverse group of people, who somehow have gotten put in the same box labeled "sexual minorites".

I'm a boring CISHET vanilla white male, so I don't really know. I want to include as many as I can when I refer to "lgbtq+ people". I've been studying various flags, trying to find the one flag I need. But I can't really figure it out.

Is lgbtq+ the preferred term, or what should I use? Is a flag better? I don't want to hurt someone by not including them.

 

If money wasn't an issue, what ILF riser would you get for olympic recurve?

This is both meant as a thought experiment, but also as me picking your brains as a starting point for picking a new riser for someone.

Personally I like the Wiawis integrated dampeners of the ATF-DX or Meta DX. And the insert in the ATF-DX fitting, so you don't ruin the entire riser if you're stringing it wrong, does have some appeal.

But what do you think? Any Gillo fans here? Anyone want to try convincing the rest of us that formula is a superior fitting, and that we should tie the knot with Hoyt?

 

I apologize for the links below being vendor specific, but the linked products are the specific products I have used. I have no affiliation with the shop other than they offer to bill my job instead of having me pay upfront and then get the expenses redeemed. (I have tried making this both subscript and super script with respectively ^ and ~, but none works on lemmy)

I seek advice on proceeding with the setup and acquiring an acceptable printing quality.

Background

I have recently "upgraded" a creality cr6 se at work. I installed a spider steel/PEI plate (https://3deksperten.dk/products/spiderflexiplate-double-system-255x245-ex-cr-6-se), a bimetal heatbreak https://3deksperten.dk/products/3dsupreme-titanium-alloy-bi-metal-heatbreak-cr6-se) and a hardened steel nozzle (0.4mm from this kit https://3deksperten.dk/products/creality-3d-3d-printing-up-market-nozzle-kit-8-pcs)

Findings

Testing this new setup I used the PLA spool I had been printing with days before without issue. The new and old nozzles are all 0.4mm.

What I discovered was that I couldn't get any adhesion to the built plate, some spray glue (this exact make and model https://3deksperten.dk/products/printafix-100ml) fixed that. Then layer adhesion was an issue. So I upped the temp to the max for this PLA and increased the extrusion rate. First 10 layers or so were somewhat ok, but the rest delaminated instantly.

I then opened a brand new spool of PLA, thinking that the old spool had moisture issues. Cranked the temp to max, 210°C, added 5°C to the bed and applied a strong shot of spray glue. This time the print actually got done, but the parts where Cura's tree support was supposed to be supporting, the layers seem to come apart. The rest of the print was somewhat ok, though not great.

Current considerations

  • Maybe I attempted too much at the same time. I may try swapping the nozzle back and only deal with the plate and heatbreak.
  • The heat break may be install wrong. The nozzle was screwed in all the way, loosened a few turns, then the heat break was screwed in all the way. The nozzled was then tightened. No heating was done. I may try giving the heat break a few turns before installing the old nozzle again.
  • Should I have heated hotend before tightening the nozzle?
 

Simply put, our slate countertops are uneven, creating issues in daily activities. I've considered using an angle grinder with a grinding disc, but I'm hesitant. Seeking advice on practical solutions for making installed slate slabs even.

The slabs in question varies in thickness by at least ±6mm, in some spots the extremes are within 80mm of each other.

 

Looking to maybe upgrade my kid's creality cr6-se, so we can move into the more exotic materials.

It appears that I have two options for an all metal hotend, but I can't find any comparisons. Not besides a reddit post from 2020 stating that the Prima Creator is a knock off.

So have anybody tried one or both and care to speak about the experience?

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