Thanks to NerfSG's suggestions and some print testing, some changes have been made to the initial design so here you go! More Ergonomic grip, (relatively) shorter overall length (depends on barrel used) and ambidextrous mag release (User can choose which side they want the mag release on), hopefully this one works better

I'm designing a printed stringer that uses a sled rather than direct string contact, and I'm trying to decide on whether the trigger should pull or push on the catch mech to release. In a direct contact stringer, the catch mech just pushes the string directly upward, so this is all new to me.

The sled is already pushing forward against the catch, so a pulling trigger would press the catch harder into the sled and pull it back further before releasing. A pushing trigger would instead move in the same direction as the string tension, temporarily reducing the load on the catch before releasing.

Is there a significant difference between these two methods? Should I just use a pivoting catch instead? Bear in mind that stringer springloads can get a lot, lot heavier than springers if desired, so I'm thinking in terms of what will be best for these printed parts as they produce constant lateral friction against each other.

https://youtu.be/kA15V2liMR4

Nerf Modulus grip and flywheels split in half, with a Dart Zone Dartstorm belt feed mechanism in the middle. All rewired to 3s lipo batteries.

Heya! I was looking into getting PCB's made for an FDL-3 I would like to build from scratch, as I really do not trust myself to make boards that small. I've looked into PCBway, and after some fiddling, generated gerber .zips from the .brd files. However, the other information for the boards like the layer count, thickness, etc. has me confused, and I was curious if anyone else has looked into making these PCBs, or just making PCB's in general.

Hey everyone, anyone know of a store that has Kuryaka barrels in stock? either that or other sources of in stock barrels would be cool.

Even with two barrels plugged with no air restrictors, this one still performs worse than my jolt. It has, however, captured my heart.

Hey all 👋 Just discovered this community, and so thought I'll introduce myself with a request for help.

I bought my son an Eaglepoint RD-8, and for the past few months, the timing between the firing of the dart, and rotating of the drum has been off, resulting in what you see in the image. Not clear if the drum is rotating too early, or the bullet is leaving the barrel too slowly, but at the moment, it's kinda disappointing.

Any ideas on how to fix it?

So, did you know that with a $5 water blaster, some facial tissue, and 3/4 PVC plumbing parts, you can shoot almost any damn thing you please?

I'm not sure entirely what I would use this for, but I'm tickled that I can launch smaller darts like this. Or flower seeds. Or maybe confetti? I dunno, I'll get back to you on that!

There's a new gunslinger in town and he goes by Ruppernutter on thingiverse. This remix uses some of the original hardware and none of the prints. It can fire Mega XL at 55 fps average

I was hoping for a better inaugural Discuss post, but...

So, I got a Rebelle Jolt clone for Kiddo 02 because 01 liked theirs so much. So I thought I'd do the usual stuff like drilling out the air restrictor.

Except this time around, performance has gone way down. Barely flops out of the barrel. I thought I'd try replacing it with some brass (17/32 I think? I should really write this down), but it's even worse now. I'm thinking of drilling out enough space for a Crayola barrel, but I'm kind of afraid I'm just butchering it at this point.

Please advise, and thanks in advance.

https://imgur.com/a/QypH4Gu

I got one, and I was wondering if there are any good mods (i.e., flywheel mods and stuff) at the moment?

I really like Bradley Phillips' accuracy test videos, and I'd like a sight similar to his, that's both accurate enough to test precision/accuracy at 100ish feet and can either work well with a recording device or has recording capabilities built in. Any recommendations for something I can get in the States? Picatinny compatibility is a must, but something that could also be mounted to other types of rails would be nice.

Anyone know the angle of the T238 tracer bearing scar? Is it 15 degrees like the Worker and Jingjia BCARs?

I got all this for $30

Closet is about 1/4 cleaned out...