To get right to the meat of the article:

New School Foods’ process starts by creating a biopolymer gel. This homogeneous hydrogel is placed in contact with a freezing surface and the gel is directionally frozen, resulting in the formation of thousands of directionally aligned, microscopic ice crystals traveling away from the freezing source.

Once the gel is fully frozen, the ice is removed, leaving behind empty channels. These channels act as a scaffold; the channels are filled with proteins and other ingredients (color, flavors, fats) to form the muscle fibers.

This was pretty close to my guess from looking at the pic of the the raw product. It looked like if you'd flatten out a swirled soft serve ice cream cone. The lattice structure should create a nice flakey texture.

Flavor is always the hard part, but I'm not looking for 1:1 replacement there. Actual recipes can always help shape the flavor to your palette. Salmon is pretty distinct, so maybe a generic white fish may work better.

There are always negative comments about it being processed food, but I still think the ecological benefits will outweigh that. Adapting our cooking can offset the near term nutritional issues. Use less meat, real or synthetic. We might not be able to keep our current habits if we want things to improve. We can start compromising now, or sacrifice later. That's my feeling about it at least.

So is it

Again, the flavor was close to the organic article but not quite there, leaving me with an uncanny-valley feeling. Yet, when dabbed with the plant-based butter next to it on the plate, this faux fish was delicious overall.

or is it

Synthetic fish isn't quite there yet—and may not be worth the effort

Because the article tells me both. Seems the effort is worth while when you consider the fact that salmon aren't faring well as a species currently, due to overfishing. As a result, species which rely on salmon, such as orca whales, are also measurably suffering. So if it's "overall delicious" and can save some damn whales, how is that "not worth the effort" ?

I haven't tried it yet, but I met one of the food scientists who work here.

The big thing about what they're doing here is that they're not extruding the product, so you can actually have customized textures in your food that mimick structures and textures in animal protein. Think a slab of steak with marbling vs a hot dog or a hamburger patty.

It's a huge next step towards great meat alternatives. It might not be perfect yet, but that's only a matter of time.

Very promising technology! Good to see better-than-mixed review. Looking forward trying once it hits the shelf.

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Can't be worse than the slop I was served at school