HiPER Calc Pro. A great scientific calculator I use constantly. (There is also a unpaid, ad-supported version, and the ads weren't too intrusive the last time I tried it)
You can use a boost converter to boost the 5V of an USB port to the 19V your notebook needs.
Assuming 5A output from a powerbank (which is probably about the max you will get without USB PD), you could theoretically get 0.55A at 19V. With the unavoidable inefficiencies, you will get less.
So, maybe enough to very slowly charge your notebook while it's off. But when it's turned on, the battery charge will still drop.
It looks to me like a JST SH connector: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/10357
Measure the distance between the two pins - if it is 1 mm, this is most likely the connector you're looking for.
A small pair of vernier calipers. I don't use them a lot, but sometimes they come in very handy.
I have my pi-hole setup as the upstream DNS in my router, with cloudflare as a secondary DNS. That way, all my devices always use the router for DNS (since that's what is advertised in my DHCP) and the router then uses pi-hole if it's available, or cloudflare if it isn't. But the individual device doesn't get to choose between different servers.
The part is just pretty small, I have the EW set to 0.45 mm withe 0.4 nozzle. But I will try turning it down further.
The rounding looks much more extreme than what I would expect or have seen on other printers I worked with (mostly Ultimakers).
Solvespace might be exactly what you're looking for. It is FOSS and works well for simple models. Some functionality is missing though, for example chamfers and fillets.
Alles trägt zum Klimawandel bei, die Frage ist nur wie viel. Ich fände eine einheitliche Kennzeichnung, wie groß die Auswirkung ist, sinnvoller - so ähnlich wie der Nutri-Score.
Das hätte eine tatsächliche Informations-Funktion statt dieser generellen Schuldzuweisung ("Alle Fleischesser sind böse"), die wahrscheinlich nur begrenzt effektiv wäre.
From looking at the LED bulb, I can tell you that it will not work very well in that flashlight.
The reflector of the flashlight is built so light coming from a very small source (like the filament of an incandescent bulb) is directed forward in a focused beam. With the led bulb, light is coming from 10 different spots, none of them being in the focus point of the reflector. The result will be a spread out beam that won't be bright over longer distances.
The only type of LED bulb that could work is something like this car replacement bulb that keeps the light source to a relatively small spot. But I don't think those are available in the size you need.
It isn't that hard, But it might be a bit overwhelming if you haven't done something like it before. I would recommend setting aside a couple of evenings for the job and taking your time. Start by stripping everything down, the build your bike back up slowly with the new parts.
It might be easier to pay your LBS for the job, but if you do it yourself, you are going to be well equipped to handle most issues and do any maintenance that may arise in the future.
Also, you can always bring the bike in to your LBS for the final setup and adjustment.
Here are some things you might want to keep in mind/check:
- if you are replacing brake/shift levers, you will need to rewrap the bar tape. It might be possible to reuse the old tape, but it might get destroyed in the process. (In my opinion, just get new bar tape. It's not that expensive and directly impacts the (literal) feel of the bike
- different types of bottom brackets need different tools. Check that you have the correct one before taking everything apart.
Incandescent oven bulbs will probably not be replaced, simply because there is no reason for it. The "wasted" energy from an incandescent bulb is expelled as heat, and extra heat in an oven is not a problem. You can describe the bulb in an oven as a tiny heater that just happens to give off a bit of light.
Every single freewheel does this, and it's not an issue.
The freewheel bearings don't line up exactly with the wheel bearings. This is always the case to some degree, because the interface between freewheel and hub is a non-precision thread.
It might look weird when freewheeling, but once you put use the pedals, freewheel and hub are rotating together, negating this wobble.